Tolled Peculiar

Rumpole's Return

2011-12-03T15:21:00.001-08:00

By John Mortimer, 158 pages (1980).

For the first time, Rumpole's heroics for the defense are narrated in the form of a novella instead of short stories. I found this to be a much-improved format. The plot is that Rumpole has retired, accidentally, and decides to manuver himself back into practice and chambers by taking on a fantastic murder.

The entire book is not one case, however, but rather a continuing narrative in which he takes on a number of different defenses. Alas, Mortimer begins reusing some of his old plots, but the new formal and increased depth of each chapter (nee story) make it that much more interesting.

The best subplot involves a dirty books case. Rumpole brings his work home and has several misunderstandings with She Who Must Be Obeyed as a result.

The book makes frequent references to the older stories, so I would not recommend it as an opening Rumpole-experience, but I enjoyed this novella much more than any of the previous short stories.

Rating:

The Trials of Rumpole

2011-11-26T15:08:00.000-08:00

By John Mortimer, 197 pages (1979).

This, second, collection of short stories of an English barrister are not quite as good as the first, though there are some marked changes to the characters. What I noticed most about this collection is that Rumpole and his fellow participants, especially the chambers' barristers', have so much more character. Rather than being largely foils for Rumpole's jokes, puns, and anecdotes, they have interpersonal relationships and take significant actions outside Rumpole's presence. In that sense, the second is much more advanced than the first.

My favorite was the Case of Identity, where Rumpole defends a villain whole liberty is based on the accuracy of an eye witness. Meanwhile, back at chambers, the Q.C., M.P.'s wife is doing her best do embarrass and divorce her husband. Rumpole, true to form, is also doing his best to defend both clients.

Despite the advances in story-telling technique, the whit and whimsey are still strong and I am still enjoying this volume. I recommend it.

Rating:

Rumpole of the Bailey

2011-11-14T21:53:00.001-08:00

By John Mortier, 202 pages (1978).

It took two stories to catch on, but these short stories of an English barrister are so delightfully written that I can not help but laugh my way through them rather eagerly. The title character limits his practice to criminal cases, tries his best not to find out if his clients are guilty, and never misses a joke in court. The best parts of each story are Rumpole's exchanges with the judge on topics such as the Rolling Stone's identity as some sort of jazz musicians and trade jargon for actors.

The stories themselves are not that exciting. They are set-up as mysteries as well as courtroom dramas, but would, usually, make poor episodes of Law and Order. The book is delightfully witty, quite fun, and utterly useless. I can't stop reading.

Rating:

The Postman Always Rings Twice

2011-10-10T07:29:00.000-07:00

By James M. Cain, 187 pages (1934).

This book is number 98 on the 100 best list, but it stinks. The characters are flat and predicable, the narrative is not compelling, and there's no real message or theme of significance. Oh well.

The story is set in depression California, not that much different from East of Eden or the Grapes of Wrath, but far less colorful and real. Nearly the entire text is dialogue, robbing the author of the opportunity to draw a meaningful depression landscape as Steinbeck did. The only real benefit to this is that it made for a quick read.

Rating:

The Magus

2011-10-08T12:42:00.000-07:00

By John Fowles, 656 pages (1965).

This is, perhaps, one of the best books I have ever read for testing your imagination and sense of reality. I think that is largely the point of the narrative and the style. The plot involves an Oxford graduate who takes a teaching job on a lonely Greek island. He is befriended by a semi-hermatic gentleman who leads him through a sort-of living play, with gambit inside gambit making him question which layer of fantasy is in-fact reality--if any of them are at all.

The story and the ideas it brought out--questioning reality and what is real both in terms of facts and emotions--were thought-provoking and page-turning, but I also struggled to carry on at points. One afternoon I read over 150 pages in a sitting but there were other days where the story seemed to be stringing me along and intentionally withholding the answers I sought. The constant sense of repeated climax and of the book coming to an abrupt end over the final 200 pages was also frustrating.

I found myself both glad the story was over and disappointed I could not read on. I will certainly look for more Fowles the next time I'm at the bookstore.

Rating:

The Wapshot Scanda

2011-07-31T09:51:00.000-07:00

By John Cheever, 249 pages (1964).

This sequel is a shadow of the first book and not part of my list. It shares many of the qualities that frustrate reading the Chronicle, but lacks the peaceful honesty. The best characters, particularly Leander, are gone but the frustrating digressions into otherwise minor character's interactions after leaving the Wapshot's lives continue.

As you can tell from the name, it's also about the fall of the family instead of its golden age.

Cheever's writing is still present and still great. I particularly like his balance in sentences that move the reader along without rushing the narrative or the reader. The peace is gone though, and I think that was part of the narrative. The Chronicle reminded me of a trip last summer to Maine and made me think myself in the fall leaves of New England. Much of this story takes place outside St. Botolphs, Massachusetts, so that aspect is gone.

Rating:

Sophie's Choice

2011-06-26T20:45:00.000-07:00

By William Styron, 499 pages (1976).

This is the most emotionally powerful book I have ever read. After the initial chapters, the narrative oscillates between Auschwitz and 1957 New York, between the emotional ecstasies of a young man's sex-starved fantasies and the "absolute evil" of the Nazis. It was really the contrast, more than anything else, that struck me and made the emotions so powerful. I am not certain whether Styron thought this contrast would make the book readable or whether he thought it would have the effect that the black and white of Schindler's List did seventeen years later.

Seeing that the story mirror's his own early years as an author, I wonder: how much so?

The Brooklyn parts are very enjoyable on their own, this tale of two mad lover's viewed from the third-wheel vantage of their best friend. The scene does not play into the story at all, other than the author's emotional state, and it could easily have been set today in Sausalito. Rather, the characters tell their own story and really do live in their own world, with the bustle just bustling by. It was a very bucolic story for New York City.

Rating:

A Handful of Dust

2011-04-12T20:25:00.000-07:00

By Evelyn Waugh, 214 pages (1934).

This story first appeared as a serial in the United States with an alternate final chapter that I found much more satisfying. I am very glad it was contained in my Everyman's Library edition not because I dislike unhappy endings but because I like stories that get you something. The real ending carries on the same tenor the book had for its first five chapters while the alternate one gives the reader a little twist.

I struggled throughout what sort of meaning to take away. For much of the book I thought that the protagonist's son represented the decline of the English aristocracy--and I suppose he still could--with his insistence on using low expressions and taking pleasure in other's misfortunes. I suppose every character could be attributed with the latter defecit.

I then thought it was a satire--well I know it is on some level--only.

What depressed me most was that the good characters intentionally moved away from one-another while the bad together. There's nothing wrong with that unless you romanticize the bad, which Waugh did. He did not, however, demonize the good. This Waugh is not a warm, well-intentioned book.

Other than that, I'm confounded why it is 34th when Brideshead Revisited, which is much more enjoyable and complex, is 80? Oh well.

Rating:

Woodiville Wiskey Co. Age Your Own Wiskey Kit

2011-04-06T20:25:00.000-07:00

Today is day one aging my own. How exciting.

Rating:
t.b.d.

The Wapshot Chronicle

2011-03-11T07:58:00.000-08:00

By John Cheever, 296 pages (1954).

This book tells the tale of a New England family of no importance. They are one of the good families in St. Botolphs, Massachusetts but that town is unknown even a short ways away. The book far outstrips its number 63 rating.

It was difficult because the main characters go through more setbacks than successes--perhaps as in life. The two boys are predictably confronted with challenges that the reader will see a score of pages before they do. Perhaps as in life, the parents gradually drift out of the picture, only to be reintroduced for some eccentricity or another. One gem of the characters is their realism and growth throughout the years.

I am quite tardy in writing this review, so I can say no more. I throughally enjoyed this work and look forward to reading the sequel.

Rating:

Dressing the Man

2011-03-03T07:09:00.000-08:00

By Alan Flusser, 275 pages (2002).

This is the second Flusser book I've read and it was much better. The detail and follow-up that were missing from Style and the Man were taken care of here. The book is physically large and full of full-page, color photos that I like to use for inspiration. Most of Flusser's focus on personal characteristics to determine the optimal application of clothing are still here, but the focus is more on the history of articles of clothing. For this reason, I found the book interesting, but not highly useful in application today.

My favorite book on style is still Gentleman, but this book is very similar. It covers many great articles of clothing and a variety of applications for them. Everything from crepe soled shoes to cashmere ties. Unfortunately, Flusser is not as judgmental as I would like him to be--poor application of style is never criticized, just its absence.

This book is another example of a good first style book, but not one that will add to your repitoir as your third or, in my case, fourth. This is because it contains interesting history and basic information about the purpose and application of each garment but nothing novel or unique. If you're looking for a quick reference, use the otherwise inferior Style and the Man. If you want to start with the expert, go here.

Rating:

Native Son

2011-02-17T03:11:00.000-08:00

By Richard Wright, 430 pages (1940).

Richard Wright was the first African American author to be listen in the best seller list. This work is also number twenty on the list. I think that's a little high, but the social implication may have dulled somewhat over time. The psychological ones certainly have not.

What I liked most about the work was the main character, Bigger Thomas', thoughts on how different he was from the white people. The story revolves around his murder of a white woman and how it is significant not because it is a murder, but because it was a black man murdering a white woman. Bigger knows this, but he also feels that he is less of a murderer because white and black are not the same kind of human.

I was slow in reading because there are few real cliff-hangers or events that make you eager to read on/again. The real wealth in the book is the insight into Bigger's mind and the significant social change that has, hopefully, occurred in the last seventy years.

I would recommend this book to anyone who thinks seriously about their leisure reading.

Rating:

Zuleika Dobson

2010-12-26T07:18:00.000-08:00

By Max Beerbohm, 350 pages (1911).

Number 59, I was skeptical about this one because of the ambiguous title, but the sub-title "An Oxford Love Story" brought me back in. I found it an interesting, but odd, story. The central tenet is that the title character is so beautiful that every Oxford undergraduate who sees her instantly falls in love with her and that they are inspired by one-another to commit suicide because they cannot be with her. The other main character, the Duke of Dorset, is the only one of these love-struck scholars who actually spends any amount of time with her--and his journey is what is the most ordinary one.

It was, I suppose, a satirical work based on the character's reactions to each other. But I never really got into it, as I did Brideshead Revisited, which was strikingly similar--thought with better characters who actually showed their worth rather than being forced to tell each other (and the reader) about it. Though I did particuarly like the Duke's social morality:

She could not understand that admirable fidelity to social engagements which is one of the virtues implanted in the members of [Britain's] aristocracy.

Rating:

Of Love and Other Demons

2010-11-29T06:35:00.000-08:00

By Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 147 pages (1995).

Garcia Marquez seems to be at his weakest when writing historic works. The last of his novels I read was based on actual events as well and I didn't like it either. This work is much better but seems to have the opposite problem--it is rather interesting but slow while News of a Kidnapping was a page-turner but not that interesting.

The greatest Garcia Marquez books are aggressively about old time Latin America and give you a real feel for the atmosphere of the story. When his works are bad, they do not convey any of that feeling of being there, the do not take the reader away to another time and place. Such was the case for this one, and it took me several extra weeks to finish because I was never motivated to start or continue reading.

Rating:

A Room with a View

2010-10-20T07:49:00.000-07:00

By E.M. Forster, 229 pages (1908).

This is deeply sarcastic, pessimistic book about what would today be called the middle class in prewar England. The first part takes place in Italy, where Miss Lucy Honeychurch is traveling with her cousin. Lucy later tells us that she was too old when she took this trip, part of her patrician education, abroad. The trip goes poorly because the company at the pension where they stay is so poor and because the cousins don't really get along. Lucy is younger and more modern, less consumed by making the proper impression and maintaining the proper distance from people outside the family. She is not the weak link, however, because these characteristics make her stronger and more comfortable with travel than her cousin.

The second part transitions back to England, to the Honeychurch home of Windy Corner. We are told it is an ugly house, but one appropriate for beautiful people who build a house that appreciates its surroundings rather than trying to impress the surroundings with the house. In this part, Lucy struggles with her fiancee and a man she met, but certainly did not like, in Italy. Much of this part is Lucy's thoughts, both internal and shared. Her character is really developed here and the second part is much more interesting.

The themes in the book are, as I said, mostly pessimistic--critiques of religion and class. There is also a struggle between men's and women's roles and how they change based on time and class. I was not especially convinced by the positions that Forster takes, and he seemed skeptical himself.

Number seventy-nine on the 100 best novels, I found it rather bland.

Rating:

Brideshead Revisited

2010-09-23T07:40:00.000-07:00

By Evelyn Waugh, 351 pages (1944).

This is one of my favorite books. I was captivated by the tremendous quality of the writing from the third page of the prologue on. Waugh, speaking as Charles Ryder, nostalgically remembers the best parts of his life when he stumbles upon Brideshead during military maneuvers in World War II.

Here my last love dies. There was nothing remarkable in the manner of its death. One day, not long before this last day in camp, as I lay awake before reveille, in the Nissen hut, gazing into the complete blackness, amid the deep breathing and muttering of the four other occupants, turning over in my mind what I had to do that day--had I put in the names of two corporals for the weapon-training course? Should I again have the largest number of men overstaying their leave in the batch due back that day? Could I trust Hooper to take the candidates class out map-reading?--as I lay in that dark hour, I was aghast to realize that something within me, long sickening, had quietly died, and felt as a husband might feel, who, in the fourth year of his marriage, suddenly knew that he had no longer any desire or tenderness, or esteem, for a once-beloved wife; no pleasure in her company, no wish to please, no curiosity about anything she might ever do or say or think; no hope of setting things right, no self-reproach for the disaster. . .

The narrative is fundamentally about Ryder's two lost loves--both of whom moved away from him more than he from them--that are so catastrophically contrasted with this third one. The first is non-romantic, a love of a friend and the superlative life of college, and the second is more conventionally of a woman. Waugh exposes his reader to a tumult of emotion and imagery in such a compelling and magnificent way.

There is also a mixture of interesting plot elements: Catholicism, philosophy, class. Ryder's father eats three course meals everyday because his sister-in-law insisted after his wife's death and before hers to keep the servants from getting lazy. Everyone dresses for dinner every day, even alone at home. Ryder's cousin warns him that he will be looked down upon if he only wears a sport coat and slacks at college. His father gives him an allowance of 550 pounds after being advised that 300 is sufficient because he was planning upon 600 but feels that would be insulting to the adviser.

If you like terrific writing, sarcasm, England, or traditional manners you will love this book.

Rating:

The Nigger of the Narcissus

2010-09-07T14:19:00.000-07:00

By Joseph Conrad, 161 pages (1897).

This was a surprisingly quick read that has components reminiscent of two of Conrad's later works, Heart of Darkness and Lord Jim. The narrative covers the long voyage of a cargo ship from Mumbai (nee Bombay) to London, through both entirely too much wind and not nearly enough. The title character, James Wait, is successively genuinely sick, a loafer, and exiled below decks. He serves as the catalyst for a variety of emotional impacts on the crew that--to me--seemed like an allegory on the human soul.

This is the earliest Conrad that I've read and it has the feeling of being an experimental piece, with the author trying out a variety of motifs and ways of causing characters to react. The narrative is in fits and starts, with periods of intense and minimal action and inaction--and all four combined in different ways. The shifts in narrative style, in that way, made the themes sometimes hard to follow and was slightly disconcerting. I would not consider it one of Conrad's great works, but I imagine that the serious scholar of his works could derive a great deal from it because it has the feel of an unfinished novel. I did, however, particularly appreciate the compact efficiency of the tale, starting with the final preparations for Narcissus' launch and ending with the departure of her crew after being paid.

Rating:

The Old Wives' Tale

2010-09-01T07:20:00.000-07:00

By Arnold Bennett, 612 pages (1908).

This is a magnificently written book that spans the better part of a century and the better part of three women's lives. The narrative is not terribly captivating, being overly domestic, but it is an enjoyable read just the same because of Bennett's unique ability to capture feelings and everyday events with a romantic, realistic precision. I was particularly impacted by several passages about dogs and about "remarkable" happenings to the characters' perceptions as the eras ran past.

One particularly interesting feature of the book was how well Bennett handled the incessant march of time. Because it covers the majority of the central characters lives through the industrial revolution, there is a great deal of change that these epically conservative women never think they can handle. One particularly enjoyable example is how Sophia criticizes her sister for having lived a small life before realizing that she has as well. Also, how every change is rejected as bad and then later accepted as both inevitable and essential. I strongly suspect all of the small-town Western world is much the same today.

It is interesting also that the female characters are inevitably strong, if sometimes marred by some character fault while the male characters are inevitably marred by some character trait though some are also quite strong. I wonder how this reflects on Bennett's perception of the world, as it clearly contradicts most people's--I suspect--in more ways than one.

Number 87 on the list, I looked forward to completing this book because it brings me closer to completing the list; though I enjoyed the book, that enjoyment did not mar the satisfaction of finishing it.

Rating:

Spring Reds

2010-08-11T08:28:00.000-07:00

My look for a Spring day in August is blue and white with a red streak knitting everything together.

Above: light blue gingham shirt, off red woven tie, and gold tie bar from thetiebar.com.

Below: J. Crew classic cut chinos, J. Press woven red belt, and my new Bass saddle shoes (with red brick soles).

Rating:

Mad Men Dove Ad

2010-08-04T10:06:00.000-07:00

Stuart Elliott, More Fake Mad Men; More Real Ads, N.Y. Times, Aug. 4, 2010, at B1.

I caught the second episode of Mad Men a few nights ago and, besides being slightly disappointed, was pleasantly amused by the Mad Men spoof advertisement from Dove. By itself, it was amusing and cleaver because it was both a mockery of old-format adds and a successful application of modern techniques akin to prescription drug ads. Without, of course, the image-destroying side-effects disclaimer at the end.

The spot itself features two ad men at a conference table struggling with a line for soap. A secretary walks in, overhears them, and gives them the perfect line(s). I like this spoof on Peggy Olson because it's funny even if you don't watch the show. Then, the men steal the idea and decide to celebrate with a few rounds of drinks! Delightful. You can check it out here.

The season itself has been a bit slow so far, but has great promise. The ads will, apparently, continue all year long.

Rating:

Two Images

2010-07-30T11:25:00.000-07:00

On my last day at the Court of Appeals, I give you two images from The Sartorialist to attempt to make amends for my lack of posts the last two weeks.

First, he writes "Wasn't This What They Really Meant for Casual Friday?" For the record, I think the jeans are inappropriate for the office but that if replaced with chinos the gentleman in question is spot on. I write this while surrounded by casual slobs in an actual office.

Second, it seems this is speech. I may get back to you on that one.

Rating:

L.A. Confidential

2010-07-29T07:38:00.000-07:00

Staring Russell Crowe, Kevin Spacey, & Guy Pearce, Directed by Curtis Hanson, 2:18 (R).

This is one of my favorite movies in my personal catalog. It deals with police corruption and vice in Hollywood's Golden Era. It also has a laundry-list of starts who play their parts admirably. It's not really a mystery because most of the details are apparent, but the twists and turns that take you there are what make it worthwhile. The dialogue is also good.

The film is definitely stylized, with a Los Angeles that's actually more glamorous than Bugsy, another great film in a similar setting. While I enjoy this, it's artificial nature is also what makes the film. Police officers cavorting with celebrities and political figures with less control than the career counter-parts they lead. But underneath this all, there is a baseline of reality, with period abilities, technology, and appearance throughout.

I particularly like that the gentlemen tie their own ties--or at least they are tied differently for everyone. Kevin Spacey, when he has one, has a much different knot than James Cromwell, and that, to me, adds reality. I can say I've heard one wardrobist agree with me. Their tie knots, however, do not compliment their personalities nearly as much as their clothes do. Slick, playboy Spacey always wears odd jackets is a true dandy style, with pocket square too. Straight-laced, dull Pearce is always in a traditional suit with no flourish at all. Crowe wears mismatched odd jackets. Cromwell's clothes look as beat-up as he does, but without giving him away. The one thing that bothered me was that so many characters appeared to be wearing tweeds and flanels, in Los Angeles! Particularly Spacey, who would then turn around and be wearing an unlined, patch-pocket linen that night.

If you like period clothes, great acting, a good story, or all three of those, enjoy.

Rating:

Tolled Peculiar Recommends: Seattle Beer News

2010-07-23T06:35:00.000-07:00

By Geoff Kaiser

I discovered this local blog recently and have already benefited from it. Seattle Beer News provides a roundup of local breweries, beer events, and new brews. He mixes in the occasional review, but also simply dispenses useful knowledge about the local scene.

I have been reviewing some of his beer reviews and find them to be through and pretty much on point with my own impressions of select beers. He has a bias toward drafts, don't we all, and locals, good for him, and appreciates the more flavorful beers over absurdly high alcohol content. I haven't taken advantage of this section in practice yet, but I'm sure I will.

What I have used to my advantage is the events notices. Just yesterday, I went to Beveridge Place Pub to partake in Brewer's Night. Now, not only would I not have known about this nice, little establishment without the blog, I would have had no idea what each Brewer's Night was about. The Pub's website has a calendar of events, but you have to go down there to know what they are. Yesterday's & Seas Brewery experience was not tremendously impressive, but I enjoyed the atmosphere of the pub and as long as my friend keeps living in West Seattle, it will be worth checking out from time-to-time.

Rating:

Summer Watch

2010-07-22T05:37:00.000-07:00

My friend twitpic'ed this today.

There has been quite a lot of attention paid to summer watches lately. A gentleman doesn't vary his style with fashion, and so will not run out and buy a quirky colored watch for the season. He may take advantage of these vicissitudes in an economic and ironic fashion, as my friend has done.

Rating:

Four Shoes to Own

2010-07-16T06:08:00.000-07:00

Shoes take about the same place in my clothing priority as they do on my body: the bottom. Shoes are very important--beyond just no shirt, no shoes--but I prefer other items in my wardrobe like ties, and to a lesser extent suits. So for a gentleman like me, the collecting of shoes is an exercise in efficiency. The goals are (1) always having the right shoes for the day while (2) having as few shoes as possible.

The principles I followed require two brown because shoes always deserve a day of rest between wears to fully recover and one black because brown is the go-to color. To meet that first goal, I add a summer pair, and, in the name of the second goal, I omit a second pair in black at the risk of wearing them on back-to-back days. There is also a balance of formal and causal wear, that fits my professional endeavors and personal proclivities: you may have to make some adjustments depending on your needs. Finally, it is important to remember these constitute the minimum four pairs a gentleman may have to be elegantly dressed. Unfortunately, I own only one of these pair. Nonetheless, here they are.

1. Black Plain Toe Balmorals

These are shoes with closed lacing, meaning the part of the shoe that forms the laces almost closes on itself, with an additional piece of leather sewn beneath to form the tongue. I selected plain toe because this is the only shoe that can be worn with both a dinner jacket and a black suit. The other dinner shoes, pumps with silk bows and velvet slippers, are completely inappropriate for business pursuits and suits; meanwhile, the addition of a toe cap, even a straight tip, renders them too casual for evening dress.

However, if you are the type who will never wear a dinner jacket, you might freely add a toe cap or even some minor broguing with my blessing. And if you wear black tie so often you can afford special shoes, by all means get one of the above or these in patent leather.

2. Cordovan Wing Tips
These are my favorite shoes that I will feature today and will surely be the next pair from this list that I purchase. These are shoes of the country and of Scotland, but the days of men changing their suits upon entering the city and again upon leaving are behind us, so they are perfectly appropriate for any business suit that is not black. As such, they will get the most wear and might as well be the very, very best. Cordovan leather should come from Alden, the Rose Bowl of its cordwaines, and is the most distinctly American aspect a gentleman can add to his business footwear. They are universally distinguished and, despite their immense difference from plain toes, are equally acceptable for all but the most serious of business. While black may be necessary to seal-the-deal, brown is much more stylish and should be your go to. They are also quite dark, adding to their formality.

Gentlemen who are not willing to pay a premium can get the same style in brown, and can go much lighter as well if they are looking to be more casual. But certainly, the 50% premium that cordovans command is well worth it.

3. Brown Penny Loafers

Penny loafers provide support that other types of moccasins do not while still maintaining a casual slip on nature. These will be a gentleman's go-to shoe when a suit is not required, and I prefer a pair that can stand up to some serious walking. Because of the pounding, however, it seems like a pair that a gentleman can save some money on, so I turn to Bass to get welted shoes from America at an affordable price. Alden and Allen-Edmonds are out because theirs are significantly more expensive and drift too far toward driving shoes.

Alternatives include horse bit or preferably tasseled, but I prefer pennies by far. I currently have rubber soled loafers as an even harder-wearing alternative, but this list places elegance above the added rebound of synthetics. A pair of cap toe lace-ups could be in order instead, or in addition for gentlemen whose life demands a great deal of laces. But there's little wrong with wearing these with a suit

4. Boat Shoes

Of course, this shoe must be from Sperry Top-Sider. My AOs are somewhat brighter than this, but they come in a cornucopia of colors. These are for the gentleman to show his whimsical side without going so far as showing his toes. Just as chinos are the gentleman's jeans, Sperry's are the gentleman's sandals. And please, no socks.

If you're not the beach and boat type, the other classic American, casual, summer shoe is the saddle shoe. Get some in white on brown and wear them everywhere from the golf course to the museum. Even further along is the white buck.

With these four shoes, you will have the right pair to look elegant at any occasion that requires a gentleman. If you like shoes, don't stop here. (All images courtesy of the named manufacturer.)

Rating:

E4

2010-07-15T06:51:00.000-07:00

The New York Times Thursday Style section had two interesting articles on chinos today. The authors keep calling them khakis, but I suspect that's because they are confused. Khaki is a color, chino a style of pant.

First, a profile of Grown & Sewn with a peak into the chino culture and a contrast over at Save Khaki. Both are home to overpriced, but cool chinos.

Second, a brief note on The Art of the Roll, i.e. cuffing your trousers in summer.

Life could be better; original content forthcoming.

Rating:

Brass Buckles

2010-07-13T08:23:00.000-07:00

I recently came across this post proclaiming that matching your metals is equal in importance with matching your leathers. I must take this opportunity to disagree. It also gives me the opportunity to share some of my research into the purchase of brass belt buckles.

A gentleman wears only brass buckles, though why I cannot tell you. See both Roetzel and Antongiavanni if you doubt this. Apparently, silver buckles are more of a fashionable update on the already post-traditional pants-securing device. I've been switching to brass as best I can and find it a more subtle and distinguished metal.

The trick is finding good belts so you can comply with the part of the style blogger's post that is correct: coordinating leathers. (Note, this does not require you to go so far as having two leather briefcases.) The obvious sources are one's shoe company. Reputable, last-made cordwainers (for Americans see Alden and Allen Edmonds) will offer a variety of belts that match the leathers in their shoes. The down-side to this is that you end up with a belt actually matching--rather than coordinating--your shoes. It is better to be a shade or two off, so long as you are in the same family.

Quite the opposite is true if you go to your department store: a meager selection in brass that will likely not suit your idiosyncratic preferences. Try Tanner Goods instead. Their belts are of the same price and come in a variety of subtle variations--but please, stay with brass.

Rating:

J. Press Delivery

2010-07-08T06:51:00.000-07:00

I finally got my sale order last week, just nine days after I paid $15 for shipping. One of my greatest shortcomings is patience, and that type of delivery charge and delay is simply not acceptable. I don't like to pay for shipping at all, but if I do there's simply no excuse for it to be flawed in any way. Any way.I'm rather satisfied with the items I ordered. I picked up two belts and a silk pocket square, the latter for my August wedding attire. The sale prices made all these items great values. The belts are a bit shorter than identically sized leather belts, but I suspect this is because they are cotton and the buckle area should be kept short. Curiously, the are not the same length though, with the pattern belt about two inches shorter than the surcingle one.

The surcingle belt is of impeccable quality and I couldn't be more pleased. The leather has a nice texture and is reasonably thick. The cotton is dyed as expected and also seems sturdy. The buckle is solid brass, brass being the only metal for a gentleman's belt.The pattern belt is clearly lower quality and workmanship; cheaper leather and lower quality assemble left me a little disappointed. The leather is just a single piece, not stitched and rather thin. I also had to substitute my order at the last minute because J. Press is really a retail store and their online inventory is not automatically updated--they sold out between when I placed my order and when they gathered the constituent parts the next morning. The buckle is slightly lighter, but also solid brass.

Also noteworthy, both belts were mostly a cheaper alternative for these needlepoint belts that I covet to convey a summer state of mind. A non-leather belt is an excellent way to bring summer into professional or semi-professional attire. It is probably on the boarder of acceptable for a gentleman's causal look, one doesn't want too much out of the ordinary at the same time, but can be done correctly.
Finally, the pocket square has not yet been tested. I've purchased it for use with my pearl gray linen suit because linen on linen would be odd and I think the silk will offset nicely. I'm still considering a non-silk tie, but I don't think my date would take very well to anything too nontraditional (in her eyes) because "this is the only time I'll meet many of her friends."

The tremendously poor shipping experience has me second-guessing my intention of ordering some Shetland sweaters in the fall, but my satisfaction with the products will keep me from deciding just yet. Perhaps I'll stop at 82 Mt. Auburn Street on my way to Maine.

Rating:

Mad Men

2010-07-06T07:41:00.000-07:00

Staring Jon Hamm, January Jones, & John Slattery, Created by Matthew Weiner, entering season 4.

The -sixties was the height of men's style, or close to it. New York has always been where American style is based. Cable gives the producers the ability to target a narrow audience, rather than grovel for mass appeal. What's not to like?

Season 4 preview:

Wardrobes:

Cast Reflect:

Its all back July 25 @ 10:00.

Rating:

Forgetting your Wardrobe

2010-07-02T06:42:00.000-07:00

A gentleman should carefully consider what he is wearing, until he is wearing it, at which point he should forget. I wrote in my last post that Casual Friday is an abomination. Since then, I've received several comments questioning my motives and reasoning. I will take a moment to explain.

Samuel Clements wrote that "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society." As usual, Mr. Twain used comedy to express a serious point. The purpose of a gentleman's wardrobe is to open doors and it is designed to do that. What some call permanent style is established as the gentleman's universe of acceptable clothes because it is universally accepted. It increases one's potential in this way and I feel that it makes a gentleman feel more successful and capable as well.

If you are thinking about your clothes all day, either because you feel self-conscious or because you are more concerned about your appearance than your accomplishments, you will not be your best. And being your best is what being accepted and showing your success is about. Thus, the purpose of being well dresses is as much about forgetting what you are wearing as showing others you know.

Consider a cyclist. Any real cyclist will wear spandex head-to-toe whenever she is on a bike. In races, this has real value because of aerodynamics and efficiency. But during workouts, it would make sense to wear bulkier clothes to increase drag and have to work harder--this is what swimmers do. Yet she will not do that, even if she is somewhat self-conscious about appearance, because bike shorts and a bike jersey are what cyclists wear. To do otherwise would distract the athlete from what should be her focus.

Properly tailored, a gentleman's wardrobe is comfortable and stylish. A shirt's collar should not feel restricting, the shoulders should allow full range of movement, and et cetera. There is an old joke that British military uniforms are tightly tailored to prevent impulsive acts of surrender--that is, one cannot lift his arms over his head without unbuttoning the jacket, something an English gentleman would only do after careful reflection. However, this underlines the point because proper tailoring should not restrict appropriate types of motions--of course one cannot pole-vault in a suit.

A gentleman's wardrobe should open doors and not close minds. Clothes cannot make you a gentleman, but properly regarded they can make you feel and function like one.

Rating:

Down with Casual Friday

2010-07-01T06:29:00.000-07:00

Of course, in the modern day, a gentleman is no longer a man of leisure but a state of mind, character, and morals; so he has to work 9-5, or probably much more. At many a modern workplace, this means the horrors of casual Friday--hereinafter "the abomination"--must be confronted almost every week.

As a court-going squire, I have found an excellent way to avoid the abomination is to schedule appearances in court; in my current role, I find attending oral argument has the same benefit. However, there are also days when it cannot be avoided. This is how I enjoy myself though, with a little color.

There is no doubt that gentlemen who care about clothes disdain casual Friday. Antongiavanni and Roetzel both write disparagingly about it. Fluss er avoids the subject completely. Will has one of the more articulate critiques of the casual work day, though Antongiavanni has the more amusing, writing that the practice "caused the first recession of the 21st century" and

that after the accounting firm Arthur Anderson introduced it into England, Savile Row wailor Angus Cundy predicted that it would cause their ruin--and soon after, the firm imploded in the Enron scandal.

Personally, I intend to be cutting back even more because I feel it being uncomfortable in a professional attire sense lowers my productivity. Those who know me personally will know productivity is what started my interest in clothes. What I would like to see the return of is the Friday Suit.

The Friday Suit comes from the old "no brown in town" rule. This practice has to do with the uniquely English habit of fleeing London for the weekend and evolved as an accepted compromise between strict formality at the office/in the city and country colors. Though I hardly retire to my country estate on Friday afternoon, I would be happy wearing chinos and a jacket instead of a suit, unless going to court of course.

Try bringing back the Friday Suit and leaving the abomination in the dust.

Rating:

Going Sockless

2010-06-29T07:16:00.000-07:00

I spotted a guy on the bus this past week showing some ankle in entirely the wrong way--between his athletic socks and khakis, above his black shoes. There are so many things wrong with this picture.

By contrast, I was showing some ankle in all the right ways, boat shoes, cuffed chinos--going sockless. The key is to make clear you are doing so intentionally, as we've seen so much this week in photos from Pitti Uomo.

This is a look probably best left for the weekend, though the more advanced dresser goes sockless with a business suit. I'll stick to more casual outfits for now, like this one from casual Friday--which ends today as far as I'm concerned. Its also best with chinos because the cotton imparts the necessary casual air. Jeans are too heavy; why bother going sans socks if you're going to put those heat bottling leg coverings on?

It's a great summer look, executed properly. So please leave the cotton gym socks at home.

Rating:

Summer Wedding Style

2010-06-28T06:09:00.000-07:00

A gentleman never misses a prime opportunity to enjoy his dress and embellish a little bit.

My girlfriend and I decided to have a fancy dinner last weekend, in part to test drive our wedding attire for one in Maine later this summer. I am pictured with a pearl gray linen three piece suit from J. Crew, my bespoke light blue gingham shirt, new Nordstrom off red tie, purple silk pocket square from Paul Frederick, and freshly polished brown loafers from Ecco. I plan to substitute a J. Press pocket square when it arrives from the sale (it's now a week since my order...) and add a carnation in my button hole. I may switch to a dark purple Macclesfield tie.

As you can tell, it's an outdoor wedding, and even in such a casual environment a gentleman strives for excellence. The linen offsets nicely with the three pieces to make it both casual and elegant. Were this an earlier wedding, I could have worn my off white cotton/linen suit, but because of logistics I won't have the opportunity to change into after 6:00 non-white. The vest also calms down my check shirt, and I will be using this advantage frequently in the future now that I see how well it works to add color without losing too much conservative appeal. Silk instead of linen in the pocket because contrast and complementary fabric is crucial--I could go cotton for my pocket, but I think that would make me self-conscious. I will have it in my pants pocket for ladies and emergencies. Finally, loafers for casual but with socks because it's a wedding and the bridal party should get all the attention.

My girlfriend declined to be photographed alone and I lack the technology to take our picture together.

Rating:

The Thomas Crown Affair

2010-06-24T20:55:00.000-07:00

Staring Steve McQueen, Faye Dunaway, Directed by Norman Jewison, 1:42 (1968).

What's not to like. The original is a bank robbery movie, which is probably the best type, with a great set-up and some very interesting post-heist developments. The wardrobes are masterful, perhaps perfect. The acting is superb, with an Academy Award nominee and winner as the stars. The writing is even quite good, with interesting dialogue and an exciting story clear through. I do have one small question about Dunaway's feelings in the end though.

Thomas Crown is outfitted in three piece navy suits whenever he doesn't have to be wearing something else. He almost always wears white shirts, but I can forgive him that because he wears great ties instead. I particularly appreciate that the suit is Mr. Crown's default wardrobe choice, something to which all gentlemen should aspire. He shows how one can pull it off without losing anything, anxiously playing a game of chess--then canoodling--while perfectly comfortable in a three piece and tie.

We also get to see him in a navy Barracuda jacket flying a glider. Someone said Steve McQueen was the only person who can pull off a khaki one and still be a bad ass, so navy for the more laid-back Crown is an interesting choice. I suppose it's his way of saying "too bad I can't pilot this thing in a suit."

If you like bank robbery movies, this one is also for you. The gentleman thief is perhaps the best type because he has to be a mastermind and go completely unsuspected, rather than just get away. Bank theft is also the way to go because of the anonymity of your loot. And it has the appropriate twist; a mild surprise but not disappointing or inconsistent.

There's no reason not to like this movie.

Rating:

Shopping on a Budget

2010-06-22T06:56:00.000-07:00

A gentleman working as a public servant must learn to shop sales, buy quality, and plan his purchases to get the most out of each item. One way to achieve this is certainly to shop off-season, where the best deals are to be had, as much as possible. This is difficult because prime items are less frequent at such sales, but the gentleman who has patience can usually succeed. The key to this approach is to know what one is looking for and to avoid what one is not. The gentleman is not bothered by selecting from other people's rejects and always buying for next season or next year because he is selecting clothes which are not tied to the vicissitudes of fashion or which will stop being stylish and is not driven by other people's views.

To this end, there are three good sales going on right now that are all worth checking out. There are probably more, depending on what mailing lists you subscribe to. First is the Nordstrom half-yearly sale. This is certainly inferior to the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale that is coming up, but is worth looking into anyway; Nordstrom is one of the few remaining stores that a gentleman could conceivably do all his shopping at and it tends to have a selection in virtually every category on sale.

Next is the J. Press Spring Sale. This East Coast trad. headquarters offers accoutrement from college crest-emblazoned blazer buttons to Shetland wool sweaters to gingham neckties, and all of top quality and fungible utility. It does not have quite the selection of a full haberdashery, but is a reliable place to secure the basics.

Finally, Brooks Brothers Semi Annual Sale ends July 6. Of the three I'm highlighting, this is the only one with a definite end so I saved it for last. BB features a combination of the other two stores, with Nordstrom's breath and J. Press' depth. It too can act as a complete supplier, though I wouldn't recommend it because, like J. Press, it is its own label, but unlike either, its pieces all have an easily recognizable character. There are certainly worst things to be known for than the man who wears only Brooks Brothers, but there are better ones as well.

I have taken modest advantage to fill several holes that have been bothering me. I picked up a few year-round items and a few summer pieces I couldn't find on sale earlier. Nothing for fall because I anticipate only a relatively few major purchases and a better paying job.

And do make a plan before you go.

Rating:

BeSpeak

2010-06-21T06:50:00.000-07:00

Created by Alan Flusser

Following up on my last review, there is a promotional app available that lets you try your hand at dressing your palate and body shape with numerical feedback. The idea is that you input your physical characteristics and then BeSpeak gives you suggested combinations. Each includes exactly four items, suit, shirt, tie, and handkerchief. Suitless and sport coat and trousers options are not available, nor can you add jewelry or forgo a pocket square (though, why would you want to). You can reshuffle it as often as you like, but for me it always came up fundamentally the same; that is, without creativity or variety.

Alternatively, you can input the suits, shirts, ties, and handkerchiefs from your own wardrobe and try making your own combination. However, there are two tremendous problems with that. First, the app runs incredibly slowly, at least on my iPhone. This makes actually inputting a comprehensive selection onerous. There is a camera feature that helps you select the tones for an item, but after each aspect--base color or accent--it loses the picture and you have to take it again and have it analyzed again. Second, the shuffle feature doesn't add your wardrobe inputs to the rotation and you can not limit the shuffle to just items you own. Thus, you end up either trying to replicate a suggested look with what you own--something you can already do with catalogs and magazines--or just making up your own combination and getting BeSpeak's imprimatur--which may have value for some, but not for me.

It also strives to rate the complexity of your combination based on how well you combine pattern and accent colors. Alas, texture--perhaps the most important aspect of complementary dress--is not an included option. Thus, my middle gray worsted suit is, as far as BeSpeak is concerned, equal to my pearl gray, three piece, linen suit. And yet.

For example, you can see that my planned wedding combination for late this summer received a 144 for skill and a 9 for quality. The nine of ten is because the jacket has narrow lapels and BeSpeak feels I should wear wide and only wide. Never mind double breasted, what's that? It can not take into account the blue edging on my pocket square, the linen/silk/cotton coordination, or the tone and subtlety of my tie. There are not nearly enough options to cover the subtlety of true coordination of pattern, particularly the vicissitudes of pocket squares. A promising idea, but in need of work to bring the true contributions of Alan Flusser to the digital world.

Rating:

Style and the Man

2010-06-16T06:58:00.000-07:00

By Alan Flusser, 137 pages (2010).

This is the revised version a book first published fourteen years ago. I know nothing more about the original, so I will not mention it again. This version is a very utilitarian handbook on how the major aspects of a gentleman's formal wardrobe should be tailored and fit. It is little else.

Taken for what it is, the book is fairly useful and does what many style books do not by suggesting alternatives for an identical man. To clarify, Flusser writes that many aspects of a gentleman's tailoring should be tailored to his facial appearance--skin, hair, et cetera--and his body shape--tall, portly, et cetera. This is best summarized in the many type-specific lists that conclude chapters and serve as even quicker references (and are perhaps the best value in the book). However, for a light skinned, gray haired, portly man (hypothetically), he sometimes intentionally makes contradictory recommendations. This is interesting, and again done on purpose, but lacks some depth because there is seldom explanation for the options. How can a tall man look ideal in both single-breasted three button and double-breasted, 6x2 suits?

Honestly, I was expecting more in some form or another. Flusser is among rarified air in today's men's style world, so I am in no position to question his pronouncements. But, I would like more explanation and more obvious thought put into the directives I am given here. Alternatively, more illustrations or information on fabric, weave, and such--the book really does only address cut and color. Something. However, that perhaps goes beyond the point of the book, which is to serve as a quick reference to Alan Flusser's style, not as a guidebook for creating your own or as a stand-alone project or one for the uneducated in the ways of fashion.

I will certainly purchase another Flusser, Dressing the Man, but will probably not look back to this book very often.

If this is what you're looking for, you will be well pleased. If not, you should look elsewhere.

Rating:

Texture

2010-06-11T06:33:00.001-07:00

The key to a gentleman's pairing of odd jacket and trousers is contrasting texture. I tend to avoid this look because I prefer the elegance of a suit to what always feels like a hybrid to me. Though I do like the purely modern amalgamation of odd jacket and jeans. However, I stumbled upon a pleasant combination on accident yesterday by keeping the idea of contrast in the front of my mind.

Above the waist: pearl gray linen jacket, two button from J. Crew; light purple stripe bespoke shirt with spread collar; dark green geometric tie with purple and green accents. Below: dark gray wool pants in summer weight; black oxford loafers.

Rating:

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

2010-06-10T05:45:00.000-07:00

By Benjamin Wallace, 282 pages (2008).

This book is full of contradictions and conundrums. Not in the title, that is clear. The author makes clear from about page fifty what he thinks the end of the story will be. But unfortunately, he doesn't get there, because--as exciting as the history is as it unfolds--there isn't really an ending. More of an ellipsis. And not a good ellipsis, as if I'd ended this paragraph there, more of a bad one because after about two hundred pages of build-up, the book just ends.

The contradictions come because the story is both very compellingly told and very poorly told. The book is very much a page-turner, and I frequently couldn't put it down. However, the story is actually told very poorly as a narrative, digressing constantly, breaking the chronological sequence, referring to things that haven't been explained yet, referencing small points from fifty or one hundred pages ago. As a friend of mine said, is suffers from poor editing.

It isn't organized either. The chapters, cleverly titled, are arbitrarily divided because the information is also. The main narrative isn't fully chronological and has its own digressions in addition to those outside it. Though compelling as a whole, it was very frustrating while I was at the more exciting points because I never new when I was going to be send down a rabbit hole or thrown backward chronologically because the author forgot something.

The information is also very scattered and the reader never knows when he's in for a long anecdote and when a very short one, when it will tie well into what's going on in the story and when it won't. I enjoy reading history because of the great stories, the great narrative, that compelling history can have. When that story is told poorly, at least I'm learning something. Well I certainly learned a lot about wine here, but not really very much that's useful. I'm particularly curious to try some Lafite though--you can get some vintages online in my price range too.

(Image courtesy of Amazon, as if you couldn't tell anyway.)

Rating:

The Rise and Fall of the Second Reich

2010-06-08T07:22:00.000-07:00

By Prof. Margret Anderson, University of California, Berkeley, iTunes U.

There was a definite rise and fall to this lecture series, with the worst by far coming at the end. The class opened above average with the formation of Prussia as a major player first in the Holy Roman Empire, quickly addressing Fredrick William, the Great Elector, and then the early assembly of the Prussian territories. The class probably waxed into the Napoleonic period and the great moments in German cultural supremacy and then wained steadily through Prussia as world power and into the First World War.

I selected the course because it touched on a period and part of Europe that I am generally unfamiliar with--the gap I have between classical and premodern times. I did, however, make the mistake of thinking that more of the Holy Roman Empire would be included in the course's dates. That was in fact how I found the class at all. It certainly achieved that purpose because, to paraphrase the professor, the modern history of Prussia is very much the modern history of Europe as a whole.

The part of the course I enjoyed the most, however, was Prof. Anderson's historiography of German history and her discussion of how the narrative that it told varied greatly depending upon what dates you chose to begin and end with. I really appreciated how Prof. Anderson was nimbly able to switch between different perspectives and link different parts of the history together to give a rounded view of history.

I give this course a perfectly average grade because, while it had both highs and lows, it was not so exciting that I ever looked forward to listening, but neither was it so dull that I ever considered abandoning the podcast.

Rating:

The Age of Innocence

2010-06-02T07:25:00.000-07:00

By Edith Wharton, 162 pages (1920).

Profoundly engrossing, if not page-turning, this is the best book I've read recently. The only disappointment I have is that it was easy to put down literally. However, I found myself thinking about the characters and the setting throughout the day, so metaphorically I could not put it down. And perhaps that's something more.

The novel is set in late nineteenth century New York City among the leisure class. Though Mrs. Wharton is the author, the main character is Newland Archer and the important narrative is his relationship with two women (not their relationship with him), May Welland and Ellen Olenska. He gets married at one point, but the drama only intensifies.

What I enjoyed most about the book was how real the characters are. Wharton write about their thoughts as much as their words and actions. In this way, you can see their nobleness and their shortcomings so that there are very few caricatures, true villains or heroes. This character study is mostly about Archer and nearly all the thoughts are his, but the other characters are not shadows of his personality by any means--in a way he is sometimes a shadow to them. Newland does not progress so much as change, age, and adapt to his surroundings. He tries to act on his environment, but finds himself unavoidably acting in it instead. The reader certainly has to reflect on himself.

Also, number fifty-eight on the Modern Library list.

Rating:

Bespoke Shirting: Test Shirt

2010-06-01T05:50:00.000-07:00

By free test shirt came last week and I took it for a two wear test drive on Friday and over the weekend. I'll cover the tech-blog style unboxing experience and then let you know about the shirt itself.

I made my order on a Sunday afternoon (local time) and had received a confirmation email within eight hours. They ran down all the details of my order for each shirt individually and asked whether I was confident of my measurements and would prefer that all five shirts be sewn and mailed immediately. Needless to say, I declined, but the customer service was very much appreciated. My test shirt was shipped one calendar week after I placed my order via DHL. (I have problems with DHL, but given the punctuality of this shipment, I'll not resurrect them now.) The package from Shanghai came in a remarkable three days. I probably tracked it eight times during that less-than 72 hours. And this was with standard shipping. The box itself was very nice, and again high service quality for just a one shirt shipment. I think I'll hang onto it for storage or something.

Inside, my shirt was plastic wrapped and very nicely folded--both expected. There was, unfortunately, nothing accompanying my shirt with respect to literature. I would have enjoyed a care guide, a letter explaining what I should be looking for with the test-shir t, even a thank you. It did include two plastic collar bones with the Dave Shirt logo, in addition to the cheap transparent plastic ones in the shirt itself (which went straight in the trash). Finally, the shirt had all but the sleeve buttons fastened and the folds were held only with two plastic clips (as you see on department store shirts) and nary a pin. I appreciated that because it implied to me some level of quality and because I hate trying to find all the pins.

The shirt itself is great and I could not possibly over-emphasize the superiority to off-the-rack shirting. The fit was in many ways better than I am accustomed to; there are a great many aspects of fit that I did not realize were poor (or wrong) until I put on my first bespoke shirt. Looking to a few noteworthy details, the shirts were made without gussets, which was a huge disappointment. Buying off-the-rack, I've used a few arbitrary indicators of quality: (1) removable collar bones, (2) split yoke, and (3) gusseted bottom. When I found one of these was lacking in my unquestionably superior shirt, I was disappointed. There is, of course, a split yoke. I say of course because the purpose of a split yoke is purely for bespoke shirting because the maker can adjust for less than perfect symmetry in the wearer--something more common that not. The buttons are true mother of pearl; many of them are irregular on the backs, confirming their natural origin. They are much thinner than the plastic buttons most of my quality shirts have, but mother of pearl is so strong it will break a sewing needle if poorly sewn on by machine. The cuffs are rather long, but perhaps this is because I requested double buttons for stability. Finally, the collar is impressively stiff and hopefully will have extended longevity.

Alas, this picture does not do the shirt justice because of my vest, but note how kempt it looks and then consider that I had just gotten home from a nine hour day and two hour bus ride without adjusting my shirt in any way. Leisure and style and class.

Turning to fit, I am only making three minor adjustments. I am having 1/2 inch added to the sleeve length and taken away from the cuff diameter. This will allow the sleeve to "go with" my arm when reaching out while wearing a jacket but will keep it from falling precariously down my hand. I am also adding two inches to the overall length, which I made slightly conservative originally, to ensure it stays well tucked in. Oh, one subtle benefit is that, with the fitted waste and hips, there is no awkward mushroom at my belt come days-end.

Rating:

Bespoke Shirting: Selecting

2010-05-26T07:36:00.000-07:00

Having committed himself to an initial bespoke shirting order, the gentleman turns to the particulars of fabric and cut. I was looking for shirts for work and, because of budgetary constraints, shirts with the highest degree of utility. I also believe it is easier to dress down a very good, formal article while still looking elegant than it is to dress up a casual article and yet maintain elegance.

I selected all broadcloth fabrics because it is the most formal of fabric. While it does not have the utility of oxford cloth it adds a dignified punch to the tie-without-jacket look that is the central purpose of these first bespoke shirts. Had I emphasized utility, I would have gone with pinpoint oxford, a couple steps down but still unimpeachable for all but the strictest occasion. I also prefer pinpoint for solid shirts because the subtle texture and pattern to the weave add interest without subtracting from the simplicity of solids. I feel herringbone is treated similarly.

Pattern is largely a matter of personal preference, but solid is the most formal, then colored stripes on a white field, then similar checks, and it's all down hill from there. Smaller patterns are also more formal than large ones. Non-conventional or busy patters should be avoided and are, in fact, the principle downfall of my shirting wardrobe--they are too distracting to work with all but solid ties--and who wants to wear a solid tie except to a wedding. I went with a mixture of stripes and checks to try and hit a sweet spot between utility and formality. I suppose I probably drifted rather far onto the casual side, but I have a personal dislike of solids and an affinity for tattersall and gingham.

In terms of cut, I chose a spread collar, yielding again to formality. Because, like the Duke of Windsor, I prefer thicker ties and heftier knots, I yield to spread collars in any shirt that is supposed to receive a tie. It also fits my face, which is tall rather than wide, and is the most formal. The least formal is the button down, and it is so informal I only wear it under a crew neck sweater (though it looks magnificent and, when assuming no tie will be worn, unparalleled there). I would have liked to get one or two club collars, but alas, they are not offered on the website. Similarly, button cuffs: two buttons is the way to go with bespoke because they will never need adjustment and the second button keeps them square. Other cuff details are purely personal preference. Strictly speaking, I prefer French cuffs--and they would be more appropriate with broadcloth and a spread--but these shirts are for jacketless wear when I can't hide the shortcomings of my existing shirting, and French should always be avoided without jackets.

So I suppose I ended up with a motley crew of elements, but they are intended to harmonize. That is another advantage of bespoke shirting; with a little information, the gentleman can build a shirt that conforms to his exact needs and desires.

Dave Shirt sent me a test shirt just one week after I placed my order and it left China less than 27 hours after the tailoring was complete. I will continue to chronicle my experience as the situation develops.

Rating:

Bespoke Shirting: Rationalizing

2010-05-25T06:18:00.000-07:00

Apparently, most everyone uses some sort of excuse to justify (to himself) why he purchases bespoke. For me, the justification is that my neck-to-chest size ratio does not correspond with typical fitting models. I must wear a 16 in ready to wear shirts if I want to accompany said shirt with a tie, which is something I often want to do. However, this leads to a chest size that is much more than one size too large, which itself leads to a somewhat clownish excess of fabric. Now quality brands' trim size shirts fit much better, and are certainly not noticeably large to the uncritical eye, but are hard to find. I have found myself repeatedly shopping for new shirts and being unable to pay less than $50 for decent ones. Thus, $66 bespoke was a no brainer.

Living in Seattle, there are no bespoke shirtmakers suitable for entry-level customers, so I was forced to the internet. With the help of a similarly motivated friend, I found several options and settled on Alexander West and Dave Shirt as the finalists. Given my new source of employment is the State of Washington, the option that was 1/2 the price won for my first time. Dave also has the virtue of being very fast.

Shirts are the next step in building my wardrobe because I already have serviceable shoes. I suppose I have serviceable shirts too, but I've already talked about that. I also have at least the first batch of every other round--sweaters, ties, pants, suits, accessories, coats, et cetera. Better fitting, better quality shirts is where I can get the most utility and improvement for my garment dollar and where I am most lacking.

But more on that tomorrow. Try and you can come up with a similar justification.

A Fistful of Dollars

2010-05-24T06:18:00.000-07:00

Staring Clint Eastwood, Directed by Sergio Leone, 1:39 (R).

I received The Sergio Leone Anthology recently and now have the pleasure of adding reviews of these movies which I've seen previously but forgot to review in a timely fashion. That means you'll be able to anticipate reviews of some of the greatest Westerns for the foreseeable future.

This first film is set in a small Mexican town that is in the midst of a war between two gangs. The fact that it has two bosses prevents any sort of stable economy and apparently keeps the population to just three adults (including one woman) who aren't in one of the two. Eastwood's character--popularly referred to outside the movie as the man with no name--affiliates himself with one, but goes ahead and makes money from both bosses. Needless to say, this lack of scruples eventually leads to some comprehensive gun battles.

For my type of Western, the Man with No Name trilogy is pretty slow-paced. But there are just so many aspects to the films that I can't help but love them. Here, the audio mixing is fantastic, even though the movie is dubbed. The music is enjoyable without being overt. The dialogue is mixed perfectly. The sound effects are much more realistic than typical films in the genre.

Spaghetti Westerns are supposed to be unique for their realism. They arose because they could be shot outside the Hollywood studio system and were therefore low budget but still featured at least one major (American) film star. (Here, you see, I only give one credit.) The saloon in this one is always empty, there's only one woman, and no piano. This all fits the setting for this movie, but that aspect of the theme is endemic. Try one for a change of pace.

Rating:

Kent Garment Brush

2010-05-20T06:52:00.000-07:00

I got a garment brush in the mail today to better take care of my growing suit collection. This particular one has a great utility because it comes with one softer side and one firmer side for all weights of suits. Kent brushes specifically have a sterling reputation as some of the best in the world, and are licensed by Her Majesty the Queen of England.

Proper suit care requires avoiding dry cleaning at all costs. The chemicals and general process put unneeded abuse and stress on the garment and can easily be avoided. First, brush down your suit after every wear to remove loose debris like hair and dust. I'm told by some that a clothes roller is better for this, but by others still that the adhesive leaves a residue on the fabric over time that can damage suiting. Second, leave the suit out to air for twenty-four hours, or at least overnight, to allow moisture to dissipate. This can also be kept to a minimum by wearing the appropriate weight in suiting for each time of year, but more on that another time. Third, store your suits in breathable canvas bags like this one. This will allow air circulation to keep out any musty smells while keeping dust and debris away from the fabric.

If you spill anything on your suit or it gets heavily soiled, spot clean with fabric-appropriate products or just plain water. This process should keep you from needing to dry clean, saving you money and extending the life of your favorite, and often most expensive, garments.

Rating:

Desert Boots with Linen Trousers

2010-05-19T06:43:00.000-07:00

I finally got some desert boots about three weeks ago and have been wearing them every chance I get. This is less than one would expect because of my new job, so is probably an appropriate amount. I wore them with my much-favored linen trousers recently in an experiment with texture. I liked it.

Anyone who also owns them and sees mine always comments on how comfortable they are, something I have yet to establish. Fortunately, they are breaking-in quite quickly, but I find the souls are too malleable in the ball of my foot and the vamp is too low thus pinching my arch sometimes. Fortunately, they are breaking-in quite quickly.

I went with what Clark's calls taupe because it was the middle brown, brown is the most traditional, and middle brown seemed most flexible. I have found this color complement's many of my preferred combinations. The ankle height is just right to cause my slim fitting trousers to rest slightly awkwardly and therefore only sometimes expose the full nature of the shoe. This creates exactly the look I was going for and makes them hassle-free.

I'll keep you updated on the break-in progression and whether the crepe lives up to my acquaintances' claims. I'll also try not to be boring about it.

Rating:

The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style

2010-05-18T06:53:00.000-07:00

By Nicholas Antongiavanni, 230 pages (2006).

I picked this one up to tide me over while I wait for something more promising. The author models the book on The Prince as a way to use proper attire to gain success, or at least not bar it. He imitates Machiavelli's style, which comes at the expense of readability and is often strained. The book has no photography, which leads to a low price and convenient size but makes providing examples difficult. To address this latter obstacle, the author refers constantly to modern and fairly recent archetype dressers to convey his points. This is inconvenient for one who does not travel about with the means to look up each fellow. The book also requires a certain level of sartorial knowledge (but does not assume one because the author claims otherwise more than once). This is best shown by analogy to the author's reference to knowing how to tie a tie:

I shall not discuss the mechanics of tying a tie because that subject has been amply treated elsewhere, and besides, if you do not know how to tie a tie, you need to start with a different book.

(emphasis added). Then again, if you don't know how to tie a tie, you're not reading this blog either.

Setting the shortcomings aside, this book does an excellent job addressing the modern stance of style without becoming an oxymoron. It recognizes that it is no longer the 1930s but does not compromise because of that. It sets out the timelessly proper and then--calling it dandy-fication--how that can be changed. Unlike most books, a dandy is a positive figure even now in this book. Finally, it seamlessly transitions from what pass for basics in the book to more significant and debatable issues seamlessly (pun intended).

Also of note is that Antongiavanni dispenses entirely with mentioning labels. Now he takes note of designers from time-to-time but never in a way that should warrant affirmative action by the reader. This seems to be because he is assuming the reader is preparing to build an impeccable wardrobe. This means, to him, that everything will be exactly correct and exactly what the wearer desires. And this, in turn, means that everything will be either bespoke/made-to-measure or will be something the buyer can look around for ad nauseam to find exactly what he wants--down to the material, quality, and every single subtle element.

Check it out if you're in want of another book on style.

Rating:

Red Fin Restaurant

2010-05-17T07:29:00.000-07:00

I was reminded yesterday while having lunch that I've not done a restaurant review for quite some time. Well, I had been wanting to check out Red Fin Restaurant's sushi for quite a while when along came St. Valentine's Day, a sushi-loving girlfriend, and an interesting pre fixe special. We both had a great meal, a great time, and a great desire to return.

That I did yesterday and--besides being virtually abandoned--I was not disappointed. The quality of the ingredients is top-notch, if not quite unimpeachable, and the menu is excellent. There is a large variety of both maki and nigiri as well as Japanese dinners. I also appreciate that they have an actual draft beer selection and quite a bit of flexibility. Further, there are not nearly as many vulgarities as you would find at, for instance, Umi Sake House (which itself as far too much interest in sauce drowning otherwise top quality fish) in Belltown. Located in the Hotel Max, Red Fin also fits better with my lifestyle as it does not attract the hipster doofus crowd and is more where I am anyway.

Pictured is a butterfly sitting on some wasabi. I took it while dining outside, something you should do too in the coming months.

Rating:

Doctor Zhivago

2010-05-11T07:40:00.000-07:00

By Boris Pasternak, 549 pages (1957/1987).

I enjoyed the film because of how it captured the feeling of the October revolution, the Civil War, and the terror. There are these gripping, emotional scenes as Yury Andreyevich travels with his family through the Urals to see snow covered fields and burned out villages destroyed for no reason. The book is all that and so much more. The time before the Revolution, and between the February and October Revolutions, is downplayed in the film. So is the Zhivago's time in Moscow and Yury Andreyevich's relationship with Antonina Alexandrovna (in favor of the romanticized one with Larissa Fyodorovna). The desolation and impending famine, the cold are palpable to the reader.

Yury Andreyevich's unfaithfulness is much more apparent, and much less important, in the book. He is a beautiful person, capable and willing, who suffers because of the Bolshevik in spite of trying to understand them. And that is really what gives the book its beauty, the aimlessness, worthlessness, and waste that was Russian Communism.

While I love Russian literature, one criticism I hear from anyone who has tried to read it and not enjoyed it is how difficult the names are. While that is doubtlessly true, I am terrible with names, in literature as in life, and still quite enjoy it. Doctor Zhivago has many fewer characters than other excellent Russian works and many of the characters are related or appear in discrete places or times; this all makes that aspect much more accessible and an excellent introduction to Russian authors. And while at 550 pages, it's beyond my target length, I think I would only have shortened the book by about 50 pages--so there's not much wasted or unnecessary. (This is an exercise I undertake whenever I enjoy a book or film but decide it's too long.)

The emotion and feeling really bring you back to that time and place; this is why I love history. Yury Andreyevich is a pathetic, pitiable person even if his life and many aspects of his character are beautiful. It's impossible not to empathize with him and hope for better even when you know worse is coming. This is a must-read.

Rating:

Andrew Manze Leads Baroque Themes & Variations

2010-05-10T06:26:00.000-07:00

Earlier this year, I became a subscriber to the Seattle Symphony. My girlfriend and I put an emphasis on baroque music, smaller ensembles, and different keyboard equipped instruments (harpsichord, organ, etc.). I have very much enjoyed the subscription generally and found it a great value. I've also enjoyed the variation in cultural experience that comes free of charge.

Saturday, we went to our final concert of the season which was also the best. The selection followed a theme more clearly than any of the other concerts we've been to and also offered an excellent variety of style within that theme. The basic mode was to listen to baroque pieces, either in whole or part, and then listen to modern, English compositions which they inspired. The guest conductor was an excellent showman and gave brief remarks about each piece which helped transition and educate the ignorant in the audience (which, though I aced music theory in college, included me) about more of the connections.

The music itself was also quite good. While I am not knowledgeable or experienced enough to comment on the quality of the performances, we certainly enjoyed them. The congruity of the selection also made each individual work more enjoyable and full because you could more directly contrast styles and modes.

I've already become a subscriber for next season, and enlarged my package, so I can only hope there will be more evenings of this excellent quality.

Rating:

Q & A with Jim Moore

2010-05-07T09:15:00.000-07:00

I've been a bit short on worthy content this week, what with the new job and all. (I'll get around to updating my description on my website sooner-or-later.) I did read this excellent Q & A on Prepidemic yesterday, and am posting it to placate my readership.

I have to say, I agree with everything Mr. Moore says. The one exception is $100 suits; I feel $500 is the minimum price-point for a suit, perhaps with summer suits excepted because they should have so much less to them. On the other end, I particularly endorse the application of the navy blazer as a summer option. I've been looking for a new casual blazer for spring and am overwhelmed with khaki as a recommendation. My appearance is not particularly suited to khaki--pun intended--so I've been looking for a half-lined navy or gray option. Thank you , Mr. Moore, for endorsing this approach.

Rating:

L.L. Bean Signature Summer Arrivals

2010-05-04T06:24:00.000-07:00

A bit late, L.L. Bean Signature released some added pieces for summer just in time to miss Friday's post. While they may have been gaming the system to get two posts in such a short time... I doubt it. Unfortunately, the line continues to come up a bit short.

At right, the most promising new item is the Madras blazer. It is an interesting alternative to the previously featured, and pictured at far right, Madras Newbury Jacket from Rugby Ralph Lauren. It clocks in at a quite reasonable $175. The Rugby jacket is also machine washable--if you're into that sort of thing. For a piece you can really only wear a few times a year, the $53 savings seems worthwhile, until you consider that the Rugby piece saves you $40 or so with functioning sleeve buttons. You'll have to decide for yourself if the laundering savings balances out or not.

Turning to style, both are half-lined, essential for a summer-only jacket. The Signature jacket is center-vented, which also seems more appropriate somehow, but the Rugby one may be too--I can't tell. However, the Rugby offering has patch pockets, giving it a slightly more casual vibe that works well with Madras--there's also that optional matching vest. If you really prefer the more muted tones in the Signature jacket that may be enough to win you over, but all other signs seem to point to Rugby.

Rating:

Woodland Park Zoo

2010-05-03T06:01:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend, I had the opportunity to return to one place which has reliably provided me with entertainment from early childhood to now. This particular occasion came on the opening of the new West Entrance to the Zoo, pictured below, and unveiling of the anchovy that memorializes a dedication made in my name to the Zoo on the occasion of my law school graduation. I'm pictured above in my taupe desert boots and Barracuda jacket next to that plaque.

I've always enjoyed the Zoo because I love animals and because it provides a type of recreation distinct in character and intensity from my other interests. It makes a great date too. Woodland Park and the National Zoo are the two I am more familiar with, and, while each has its own charm, I enjoy Woodland Park best. It stretches over ninety-two acres in a quiet part of Seattle and has over 1,100 animals. There are great exhibits on African animals, the rain forest, northwest America, and many others. The new penguin exhibit which my donation helped build has Humboldt penguins, my personal favorite variety because they look like classic penguins without being too big. There is a Komodo dragon, a jaguar, several elephants and much more.

I've always been a partisan of the South entrance because it allows you to see things both on your way into the park and as you approach the end of your visit--there's that pesky meadow and frankly boring animals laying siege to the North entrance. However, this new West entrance is both beautiful and promising in location, it may be my new go-to entrance.

It takes me four or five hours too see everything, and even then I'm a little rushed. I really enjoyed this trip because it was overcast, cool, and morning, all contributing factors to an active animal population. I only went for a couple hours for the ceremony and to see some of the highlights that I missed on my last visit. I can't wait to get back. You should go too.

Rating:

L.L. Bean Signature look

2010-04-30T07:32:00.000-07:00

To draw attention to the L.L. Bean Signature 20% off sale, I've decided to assemble a model look from the new line. Unfortunately for you, only one of the items I selected is actually on sale, but the point is made.

The cashmere cardigan is probably the highest quality piece, being a 100% cashmere summer sweater. The patch pockets and rolling shawl collar scream casual while the material brings a steady, luxury hand to the item.

I like the marine chambray shirt better than the chambray work shirt because it has standard pockets and less of them. The point collar and standard placket make this an unremarkable but appropriate item.

The canvas cloth pants in currant are the centerpiece of this look. I've been looking for some red chinos that go with my cool complexion (i.e. not Nantucket red) for a while, and these hit that note.

This leather field belt with dog is the best belt in the collection, though the webbed belt would be more appropriate if it came in the proper color. Real brass hardware is key. I'm not sure I would wear a belt with a dog on it, but maybe you should.

Finally, buck chukkas. I would wear Clarke's Desert Boots, of course, but these will do for an all-Signature look. The red brick soles subtly complement the pants, though I think generally such soles should be reserved for actual bucks and saddle shoes.

Think about throwing on a tie and head out for a Saturday at the park, Pike Place Market, or where ever else you roam. Enjoy.

Rating:

Madras Newbury Jacket

2010-04-29T13:38:00.000-07:00

Rugby, the younger man's version of Polo by Ralph Lauren--sort-of a gateway drug--has recently come out with some new colors in its Newbury sport coat. I am particularly blown away by this very loud madras version. I really can't say enough about it. The jacket is in the perfect summer fabric, has patch pockets which are also perfect for summer, and--if it is like its chino cousin, comes off the rack with functioning buttons, thus saving the purchaser about $40 in tailoring fees. Finally, adding to the charm, Rugby has been good enough to also offer the pictured, matching vest. My only complaint is that it's a three-button job, which I generally like but seems inappropriate for sport coats and too trendy for a piece like this.

How to pull it off.
The model has the right idea for the most part, adding a non-matching, solid pocket square, quiet trousers and shirt, and a conservative tie. Generally, however, one should not wear a belt with a vest though the reason(s) why escape me I know it's just not done. Taking a page from Prepidemic, you should tailor the shit out of everything you wear this jacket with--especially if you add the vest--and go ultra-trad in everything else (shoes & socks included).

Leave no question that you intend to be making a statement, then confidently make it. Good luck and God speed.

Rating:

The Enforcer

2010-04-29T09:05:00.000-07:00

Staring Clint Eastwood & Tyne Daly, Directed by James Fargo, 1:36 (R).

I caught the third installment of Dirty Harry Callahan this week and found it enjoyable but easily the worst of the films yet. The plot for this film involves a terrorist group that steals some munitions, including disposable bazookas, and uses them to try ransoming San Francisco. Like Dirty Harry, there is very little suspense because the audience sees many of the crimes take place. Unlike Magnum Force, there is virtually no use of cleaver dialogue or interesting narrative devices.

You can see a clear shift in the films as the style of the dialogue changes and Eastwood becomes less engaged in his portrayal of Dirty Harry. There is no, or almost no, reference to Harry's nickname, no memorable lines, and his relationship with his partners softens. Harry actually enjoys working with other inspectors in this film--something that would have rendered much of the previous two plots ineffective. The series also introduces a female leading character, and major female criminals, for the first time. In hindsight, it's hard to say whether these are meaningful, valuable changes or just changes.

To enjoy The Enforcer, you have to be a Clint Eastwood fan and enjoy fairly basic action films. When viewed in that light, the plot and writing are actually good, but when contrasted with the two previous movies, it disappoints.

Rating:

Tolled Peculiar Recommends: A Suitable Wardrobe

2010-04-28T16:28:00.000-07:00

By Will Boehlke, San Francisco, CA, USA.

I've added it to my standard rotation of fashion blogs, and I urge you to do the same. ASW, as its friends call it, is a bit more stuffy and is oriented to an older crowd than my typical recommendations, but the excellent quality of the writing and the items it showcases make up for that (if that's really something that needs to be made up for, which I don't think it is).

I include it among my wishlists because I wish my blog was this good. The photographs are among the noteworthy qualities presented by ASW, including this one of a jacket much in need of a clean and press. This picture says it all: it's higher quality than my measly iPhone contributions--and just look at how that breast pocket has been strained by pocket squares.

ASW earns today's praise because of its work introducing the reader to other gentlemen of fashion, educating the reader about style for many occasions, and alerting the reader to only select items of quality. I have delved into its archives recently to answer a number of sartorial questions with great success. Also, hailing from the West never hurts. Here are a few select posts which should give my readers an idea whether they wish to become Mr. Boehlke's readers as well.

Always Shop Alone

The Light Gray Suit

On Shoes and Socks

Wedding Ties

I recommend ASW.

Rating:

Pierrepont Hicks' Bow Ties

2010-04-26T07:11:00.000-07:00

S/S 2010 collection $62/each.

I'm premiering a new label today that replaces my Christmas Gift Guides (see Read a Label infra). Besides gift guides, I'll post on items I come across that capture my imagination. They may not be things I'd buy or wish for myself, but ones that I want to draw to others' attention.
The premiere item is Pierrepont Hicks' bow ties. Bow Ties are a prep. staple and shout quirky. Bernhard Roetzel writes in Gentleman that

they have become so unusual today that anyone with a bow tie immediately attracts attention... a disadvantage that anyone rather shy or reserved will anticipate, and it will probably put him off the whole idea. There is something to be said for the bow tie, all the same.

I quite agree. The only thing I would add is that it might make you look a little eccentric.

For all this, I generally don't like bow ties. I covet these two because they're reversible and have just the right combination of quirky-whimsy and sartorial statement.

(mackers reprise)
(hatteras)

The Mackers has the perfect combination with the light gingham and brown herringbone. I love the contrast, the classic patterns, the mix of spring/summer with a hint of dapper fall. I also like the Hatteras, but I think I mostly wish that it was a Mackers too. The Hatteras also combines two patterns with green seersucker and a blue summer plaid, but doesn't have enough color contrast to meet the high expectations created by the Mackers.

Try one of these with your three piece suit or cardigan (two other things that belong on the wishlist). The lack of four-in-hand/Windsor length is made up for with the covered placket from the extra layer. Also, unless you really are eccentric, don't switch styles whole-hog: just add one of these one way or the other a few times per season to spice things up and draw a little extra attention.

Of course, these are self-tied (or "tie-to-tie" or "freestyle" according to Wikipedia) but as Epaulet.com says, it "it will cost you 15 minutes of frustration, but will pay off with a lifetime of style. Watch for more from this category in coming days.

Rating:

Magnum Force

2010-04-23T07:26:00.000-07:00

Staring Clint Eastwood and Hal Holbrook, Directed by Ted Post, 2:04 (R).

I caught the squeal to Dirty Harry the other night and, though it received less critical acclaim than the original, I felt it was actually a superior film. The plot it certainly better, if less believable, and lends itself better to the subtle styling of the trilogy. For instance, there is excellent use of foreshadowing in both films; in Dirty Harry, the audience knows who the killer is the whole time so this is just an interesting accessory while in this film the death squad's membership is less apparent and foreshadowing complements the central events of the film.

This is much more of an action film with several shoot-outs and chase scenes but less drama. Eastwood's acting is probably not as good, consistent with the other changes, and he plays Callahan in an even more minimalist, laid-back fashion. Interestingly, his antagonism for working with a partner is gone and, by contradiction, his personal side seems artificial. For all this, I can see why it was not as well regarded and probably did well as an action film for the reviews it received.

I feel the plot devices and the action are more suited to this second film, however, and that the whole film flows better. Where Dirty Harry was a smooth plot with jerky transitions, this is a rough plot that flows smoothly through the viewer. Final thoughts: if you liked the first one, you'll like the second one--if not, not.

Rating:

Levis Red Tab F/W 2010

2010-04-22T07:12:00.000-07:00

I ordinarily wouldn't put something so commercialized on here, but this one struck me for how well the visuals were choreographed to the music. Also, you can't Sixteen Tons.

(via Sartorially Inclined via Vimeo)

Rating:

Never Say Never Again

2010-04-21T07:49:00.000-07:00

That is the title to the Sean Connery-studded remake of Thunderball, one of two non-Eon Productions/Albert R. Broccoli Bond films. As such, it lacks everything cool about Bond, including gadgets, the theme song, the opening credit, Q, et. cetera. The title refers to Connery's public statement that he would never again play Mr. Bond, James Bond following production of Diamonds are Forever. Roger Moore, my personal favorite Bond, was satisfying audience's insatiable appetite for real Bond movies at the time, following Diamonds and George Lazenby's single film On Her Majesty's Secret Service.

However, today it refers to MGM's announcement (via Kempt) that Bond 23 has been shelved due to the studio's immense debt and impending bankruptcy. While Mr. Bond's 48-year, six-faced run has taught us never to say it is the end, there will, apparently, at least be a long intermission before we are again satiated with tuxedos, martinis, and other aspects of the most stylish spy. Hopefully, it won't be the six years it took to replace Timothy Dalton all over again.

Rating:

Brooks Brothers Tattersall Umbrella

2010-04-20T05:52:00.000-07:00

For starters, I hate umbrellas. This is because they take up so much space on the sidewalk; because, as a slightly-taller-than-average gentleman, I'm frequently poked in the head with other people's; and because I can seldom share one effectively with a lady. The way to go if you're not on the golf course is hood or hat. However, living in Seattle, an umbrella is a necessary evil under certain circumstances. For instance, when wearing a suit a hooded jacket is really not appropriate--and not everyone is a hat man anymore. I find that this one is appropriate for my needs.

I got this fantastic umbrella for Easter and have enjoyed having it more every time I use it. First off, it is the world's most powerful umbrella. Everyone has heard the wife's tale that carrying an umbrella will keep it from raining. Well, it's been a little over two weeks since I got it and I've taken it with me when leaving the house about a half dozen times but have only used it once. By used I mean to keep me dry, because as a cane umbrella this one is excellent for just carrying folded up as an accessory.

As a cane umbrella, it does not collapse, instead it stays forty-three inches long, so it really makes an impact folded as an accessory. You really look like you know what you're doing instead of looking like you guessed wrong (as with a folded up collapsible one). I feel it makes one look dandy-ish... The shaft and crook are wood, the arms are tubular steel. The shaft is capped in metal so you can walk with it tapping on the ground without immediately destroying it, but I prefer to carry it in the middle. I also like the tattersall pattern, set on light brown, as a subtle, but still classic, upgrade from solid black. Unlike how it appears in the picture, the blue is not dark enough to pass for black when you're wearing a black suit, but I feel the whole ensemble is so classic that it would go great with black anyway.

This is the perfect umbrella for the non-umbrella man.

Rating:

Howards End

2010-04-19T09:17:00.000-07:00

By E. M. Forster, 343 pages (1910).

Number 38 on the 100 Best, I picked this one up because I enjoyed A Passage to India (# 25) so much. While the views expressed in the novel are interesting, I was disappointed overall. However, I picked up a magnificent gilded edition--the "gold" actually wraps around all three sides of the leaves and there is a serene drawing of the house--though nothing like I pictured it--encased in more gilding--on the cover.

The book is about how class differences are too large a gap to bridge and that attempting to do so will always result in failure. There are a variety of interactions in the novel between the true gentry--those who live of the fruits of their capital rather than the fruits of their labor--and those who have climbed into that class through ability and also the commoners--who are base and animalistic in Forster's view. While I have definitely recognized that there is a huge difference between classes generally, I do not find these differences indelible or even universal. There are base wealthy and beautiful poor. Forster does, however, hint at the idea that social mobility corrects for these idiosyncrasies:

"You admit that, if wealth was divided up equally, in a few years there would be rich and poor again just the same. The hard-working man would come to the top, the wastrel sink to the bottom."
"Everyone admits that."
"Your Socialists don't."
"My Socialists do. Yours mayn't; but I strongly suspect yours of being not Socialists, but ninepins, which you have constructed for your own amusement."

There is another interesting layer to this conversation because it is between one who has risen to the leisure class and one who was born into it.

Turning to the actual plot of the story, it is unremarkable. I would best describe it as a book where nothing happens. The action is derived from the inner struggle of the characters until about the last fifty pages, which hardly makes for a page turner. That's not to say that it's boring, but a bit slow unless you are really wrapped up in Forster's view of society. Of course, if that society is late Victorian London, all the better.

Rating:

Morning Update

2010-04-16T09:13:00.000-07:00

This, my friends, is how you do color and super-formality.

Black suit: Joseph Abboud for Nordstrom; Blue shirt; Pink woven tie: Ike Behar (this is one of my favorite ties); Green linen houndstooth square: Brooks Brothers; Ecco oxfords: not shown. The green comes out of no where to complement the pink and blue, it off-sets the black suit but is linen and understated so doesn't off-set the formality. Ta da.

Beards as Indicators of Trustworthiness.

I also discovered (via Valet) that my beard, shown, makes me more trustworthy. Because I'm virtually the only lawyer with a beard, I think that gives me a hand up.

Rating:

Dirty Harry

2010-04-14T07:53:00.000-07:00

Staring Clint Eastwood, Directed by Don Siegel, 1:42 (R).

Filled with great lines like

I know what you're thinking. "Did he fire six shots or only five?" Well, to tell you the truth, in all this excitement I kind of lost track myself. But being as this is a .44 Magnum, the most powerful handgun in the world, and would blow your head clean off, you've got to ask yourself one question: Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

Twice. Though I'm not sure Eastwood delivered it as well as it could have been. And the second time, despite how expected it is, he seems almost uninterested. The really key moment is when he gets caught acting as a peeping tom--"Dirty" Harry!

Despite this, the film is exciting, well written, and interesting. For those of you who don't know, "Dirty"Harry Callahan is a San Fransisco Police inspector who is assigned with tracking down a would-be mass murderer. And he does so in fashion--every scene features another timeless Eastwood look.

Rating:

Wet Shaving

2010-04-13T06:59:00.000-07:00

One of the larger improvements I've made in my lifestyle over the past year has been switching from canned shaving cream to wet shaving with a badger hair brush and shaving soap. I still use a Mach 3 razor, but am confident that switching to a safety razor would be yet another improvement that I've simply not gotten around to yet. I recommend it.

First, for those of you who say the extra hassle is not worth it--it is. A more traditional technique does take a little more time, but not very much, and the sensory experience is well worth it. I used to always look at shaving as a highly obnoxious chore and avoided it as much as possible--which was a lot because I have a light beard. Now, I truly enjoy the experience and have no problem shaving regularly. I also experimented with wet shaving as a weekend treat--but found myself wet shaving exclusively almost right away. I don't get up any earlier, but just shift a moment from one enjoyable part of my morning to another.

The gear you'll need is both affordable and long lasting. I've been wet shaving for the better part of a year now and am still on my first bar of shaving soap. I don't anticipate it being used up for quite some time. The two pieces of equipment I use are a pure badger hair brush ($30 at Amazon) and sandalwood shaving soap ($21 at Amazon). There are many grades of brush, but badger hair is the only way to go for quality and itself comes in a variety of levels. I found pure to be the right sweet spot for a beginning brush. Taylor of Bond Street was the way I went for soap; they are a legendary, old English company that fit right in with the idea of a little understated luxury. When I eventually need a soap refill, they're dirt cheap and last many times longer than a can of shave cream. You can also get a safety razor for a still closer shave and a shave cup for generating lather, but I don't use either of those at this time.

I've also benefited from the Shave Tutor on Youtube. He has a whole series of videos that are great to get you started wet shaving, though I recommend experimentation to find the best techniques for you. Since the only real difference between wet shaving and any other blade shaving technique is creating lather, start here.

Rating:

Romola

2010-04-12T07:14:00.000-07:00

By George Eliot, 687 pages (1862).

A historic fiction set in 1490s Florence, this plot and writing style of this novel are very catching, even if the main character gradually becomes the main villain. I enjoy reading Eliot because her books have such a strong feeling of realism, even though marriage is always a burden in them. Many of the characters are both likable and dislikable, as are the plots and the themes. The morals and themes of her work are also very accessible without being in your face or disruptive to the stories. This has the disadvantage of making major narrative developments predictable, but she toys with the reader by delaying these clear next steps and then thrusting them upon him unannounced--or not.

This work was not as good as Middlemarch, but one difference that I preferred was that the cast of characters was much smaller--therefore, as a reader, I got more involved in particular character's stories because they were omnipresent. This made the book more of a page-turner and more readable.

One thing that bothers me immensely and left a sour taste in my mouth was that Eliot explains the main theme of the novel in the Epilogue. It felt like I was talking to the Duchess in Wonderland and is a literary choice that I can not begin to understand.

Rating:

Brooks Brothers Pocket Squares

2010-04-09T17:30:00.000-07:00

Inspired by myself, I picked up three new pocket squares yesterday at the downtown Seattle Brooks Brothers. I can now verify from my own experience that they are of great quality and come at an excellent price.

I took home two houndstooth linen squares in pink and a fantastic green. I also bought one in a delightful yellow and blue windowpane; completely by accident, it is a cotton square but I test drove it today in my jacket pocket and feel that it looked just fine. There is a definite difference in feel (therefore texture) between linen and cotton, so I'm not sure I'll try this trick every day, but for the more casual circumstance I was jaunting about for, I don't think anyone but could me could tell the difference--and I feel I made an unconventional, good sartorial decision.

Also, note what a fun, sunny day it was--a linen suit would have been a nice compliment to the day, but would have been all wrong for business.

BB linen squares get

Rating:

A Case for the Suit

2010-04-08T09:04:00.001-07:00

Apparently, the NY Times just figured out that suits are back with a bang in casual and everyday men's style. David Colman (via Valet.) today promoted the round of new suits under a grand that have been making the rounds of designers' catalogs for the past few years. Somehow, he totally forgot to mention J. Crew, whose modern cut Ludlow suit (Irish linen summer version shown via J. Crew) has probably been featured on every style blog I read.

Check Mr. Colman out at Looking Good in Three Figures. Unfortunately, Mr.Colman mentions that Portland, OR, was more suit resistant than other cities. Perhaps this "new" trend will support my own effort to class up Seattle one room at a time by lowering resistance to my insistence on a more formal level of dress than is conventionally requisite.

Rating:

The Magnificant Seven

2010-04-08T07:46:00.000-07:00

Staring Steve McQueen, Yul Brynner, Directed by John Sturges, 2:08 (NR).

Considered one of his greatest films, I was particularly excited when I got this one on my DVR because it combines my McQueen fascination with my Westerns one. This is just the type of Western I like, no real slow parts but more dependence on characters and story than your current-day action movies. The film is highly regarded by critics and was based on an even more widely appreciated film, Kurosawa's Seven Samurai.

Because of the South Texas setting, I was deprived of McQueen's regular sartorial splendor a la The Thomas Crown Affair, but Westerns have their own charm in that department. Hollywood would have me believe that the Southwest was once entirely populated by people who, despite the dirt and dust, felt it necessary to wear a three piece suit--or at least a waistcoat--at all times. For obvious reasons, this is a lifestyle image that I'm perfectly willing to maintain. Unfortunately, this film breaks from that precedent and features images like the one above with too few vests and too many chaps.

This shouldn't take away from the movie. I won't discuss the plot, but I will say that the characters were interesting if a little over-the-top and the story was well converted into a Western format. I wouldn't recommend this one to get an idea of Steve McQueen's conventional rolls or to decide if you want to join me as a fan, but I would recommend it to fans of or as an introduction to the genera.

Rating:

Poker Shuffling

2010-04-06T17:25:00.000-07:00

As a never frequent enough host of poker games in my apartment, I was glad to learn of a site which teaches one how to professionally shuffle. Now I can riffle and bridge like the best of them, so you may say this is a totally trivial and useless thing, but I beg to differ. After you've shuffled for a few hours your fingers and cards will wish you knew about this website.

HowToShuffle.com (via Kempt via Lifehacker),will show you how to shuffle just the corners of a deck, thus preserving the strength of the cards. From testing-it-out, it also appears that this is easier on the fingers, which pays off after a long evening of degenerate lifestyle.

There are also a variety of other pro. style card skills you can learn on the site, if you're so inclined.

Rating:

One False Move

2010-04-06T08:53:00.000-07:00

Staring Bill Paxton, Cynda Williams, and Billy Bob Thornton, Directed by Carl Franklin, 1:45 (R).

It's been a while since I wrote a movie review, partly due to lack of good things to write about and partly due to the excessive attention the films I did see received. Well last week I watched this one with my invalid-girlfriend and was impressed more than anything by Mr. Paxton's excellent acting.

The film revolves around three murderers (including Cynda Williams and Billy Bob Thornton) whose robbery of some drug dealers goes awry. Their plan is to flee to a small Arkansas town inhabited by Chief of Police Bill Paxton. The LA police get enough info on the thieves to know they're headed to Star City and two detectives meet up with Paxton to await their arrival.

In comes the quality acting. Anyone who enjoys his work in Big Love would be interested by the contrast of his character here. Chief Hurricane's wife says of him: "He don't know no better, he watches television. I read non-fiction." Meanwhile, the lead LA detectives say he has the dedication of ten police officers (but implies the brains of none). His character is really the lovable center of the movie, and well described by those who observe him.

It was enjoyable and created a believable environment.

Rating:

Old Fashion

2010-04-05T06:32:00.000-07:00

For my 100th post, I want to celebrate Buffalo Trace, the best Kentucky Straight Bourbon I've ever had the pleasure of drinking. Its one good enough to turn anyone into a bourbon fan and has the awards to back that up. There are a variety of excellent drinks you can make with bourbon, and I make them all, including the mint julep and the Manhattan, but my personal favorite is the old fashion.

Recipes.
2-3 oz bourbon
3 dashes bitters
1/4 tsp simple syrup or 1 sugar cube
1 slice orange
1 cherry garnish
ice

If you use sugar, you should put it in the glass with the bitters, orange, and a splash of either water or bourbon and muddle the mixture to form a thick paste. If you use simple syrup, just add the same ingredients. Then toss in a few large ice cubes (a higher surface area to volume ratio slows relative melting), pour in the bourbon, and garnish with a cherry.

I'd advice simple syrup over sugar. I converted a couple months back and my drinks have never been better. Its pretty easy to make, sugar and hot water, but messy and something I thought about but never actually did. Pick up some at Trader Joe's for about $2 and don't look back.

Rating:

The Ancient Mediterranean World

2010-04-01T08:36:00.000-07:00

By Prof. Isabelle Pafford, University of California, Berkeley, iTunes U.

I finished this iTunes U podcast last week, and it really was more of a review of my own education than anything new. Prof. Pafford is certainly an able lecturer and offered some great interpretations and insights that I'd not thought about either recently or at all.

The course is basically the first half of Western Civilization, and takes you from the beginning of history to the fall of the Roman Empire in the West. This is the most interesting part of history. I came across it while looking for a lecture series on Egypt, a culture that impacts Classical history rather substantially, but classicists usually don't know much about--it is typically placed into Near Eastern Studies. Prof.Pafford's lectures were the best I could get, and I ended up listening to the whole series. I was disappointed, however, than the first two or so lectures from the actual course, covering the early fertile crescent, were not included due to technical difficulties in Berkeley. Hopefully, this shortcoming will be corrected in the next series.

Rating:

Speaking of Hipster-doofuses...

2010-04-01T08:07:00.000-07:00

... Kempt just altered me to this P.S.A. Trustocorp put up in NYC. Thanks guys,

Rating:

Loose on the Streets of Seattle

2010-03-31T17:23:00.000-07:00

Stumptown 12th Avenue edition is always a great place for people watching. I was there enjoying my free (via punch card) coffee and a terrific brownie this afternoon, when I saw two interesting sights. The first was this image of the remains of my mocha and brownie together with my girlfriend's snacks. I'm not sure that it qualifies as still life, but I thought it was a nice image worth sharing.

As for being a spot for people watching, I find that all sorts are there, from law students and professors in their suits, to hipster-doofuses in their awkward skinny jeans and inconsistent everything-else, to college students in pajamas. Then there's this guy:

His costume seems to consist of: wool chalk-stripe pants, blue shirt, navy suit jacket, purple dot tie, and brown bluchers. As individual pieces, these are fine, but this anonymous citizen makes several mistakes. Perhaps the worst of these is wearing a suit coat (three cheap blue buttons instead of two gold ones with anchors) as a sport coat or blazer. Just get a blazer, people can tell. I actually like his pants, they've got a nice texture, are a break from the ordinary, and he's got the right idea mixing navy with gray--just the wrong shades. Then his shoes are too heavy and rugged looking, they'd go better with an actual suit... or jeans. Finally, he didn't button his cuffs, perhaps trying to look like House, M.D., but considering one would have to button the cuffs to get the shirt on, then unbutton them to look rumpled and nonchalant, he gives himself away to the thinking man.

He avoids a zero only for effort; at least he's not wearing sweat pants in public.

Rating:

Wait, Wait... Don't Tell Me!

2010-03-31T07:16:00.000-07:00

"From N.P.R. and Chicago Public Radio it's Wait Wait Don't Tell Me, the N.P.R. news quiz. I'm Carl Kasell. And here's your host from the Chase Auditorium in downtown Chicago: Peter Sagal."

With those words begins a weekly catalog of the week's news with related jokes and puns. I was introduced to Wait Wait about a year ago and have been a loyal listener ever since. Each episode has a three-person panel, selected from a pool of recurring columnists/comics from around the country, and a celebrity guest. The guest gives an interview before playing Not My Job, where they ask someone who is very accomplished in one area about another area they didn't have time to learn about because they were so busy--to paraphrase Mr. Sagal. Noteworthy guests include (then) Senator Barack Obama, Leonard Nimoy, & David Axelrod.

The format involves a fixed list of games: Who's Carl This Time?, Panel Questions, Bluff the Listener stories, Not My Job, Panel Questions, Listener Limerick Challenge, & Lightning Fill in the Blank. You might have guessed from past posts that the limericks are my favorite, but you would be wrong. I actually enjoy the Bluff the Listener & panel questions the best because they are centered around professional entertainers who tend to be funnier than the call-in guests. The Bluff stories consist of two false and one true tale with some dubious uniting theme. The panel questions are just that. I also find the limericks are just not that good.

My favorite panelists are (1) Roy Blount, Jr.; (2) Mo Rocca; and (3) Paula Poundstone. Mr. Blount makes funny apropos comments with his (always amusing) Georgia accent. Mr. Rocca was last year's headliner at the White House Correspondent's Dinner and his sarcasm and superior knowledge of the week's news makes him funny. Ms. Poundstone's chief virtues are her willingness to speak up and her rants on various subjects; many of the otherwise funny contributors are apparently shy. All-in-all, listening makes me feel like I actually am keeping up on the goings on and I wish it was on more often.

I'm guessing the show is on Saturdays in the morning (west coast time) but have no real idea because I just listen by podcast.

Rating:

Dress Handkerchiefs/Pocket Squares

2010-03-29T06:55:00.000-07:00

No sooner did I write about TheTieBar.com's excellent silk dress handkerchief selection than I was inundated with other options and style suggestions. Therefore, I've decided to consolidate what I've learned recently into this handy guide to the dress handkerchief.

This is an extremely traditional accessory worn with any jacket or breast-pocketed coat. By adding more whimsical colors and folding styles, some argue that it has become an ostentatious casual look or trend, but the true trad knows that even these alleged loud fashions are actually very old styles risen from the grave of Regan-era banality.

(Pocket squares went wrong under Democrats too; courtesy AMC)

One need look no further than Mad Men to find the alleged trad way to wear a pocket square: white, crisp, and barely showing. However, this is merely a '60s style akin to skinny ties and short, pomaded hair. Perhaps if you always wear plain gray suits; dark, skinny monochromatic ties, crisp white shirts, and no personality this is your archetype way to wear a pocket square; otherwise, feel free to improvise a little without being uncouth. I will address three aspects of the dress handkerchief/pocket square that should allow you to combine an appropriate amount of tradition and individuality.

1. Material
Linen is the most standard and most traditional material, especially white linen. A purist or ultra-trad would state that jackets should always be worn with a white linen handkerchief. I must disagree.

The next most popular material is silk, though some hold both a silk tie and handkerchief is too much of a good thing. Silk is taken to an absurd extreme when paired with a matching tie-and-handkerchief set, which is mildly absurd, showing a lack of understanding of the item and lack of ability to dress one's self. However, you are more traditional wearing silk whenever not wearing a tie, and this is why most of my personal handkerchiefs are silk. Both linen and silk handkerchiefs can easily be found in a cornucopia of colors and patterns.

Finally, there are cotton, wool, and cashmere handkerchiefs. The first are really for blowing your nose and offering to ladies, not for displaying, while the latter two offer alternative textures for the right situation. Cotton handkerchiefs are omnipresent, while wool and cashmere are nearly impossible to find in low price brackets.

2. Fold
It is blatantly incorrect to say there is only one standard way to fold a handkerchief. The purpose of the dress handkerchief is to bring extra color, texture, and pattern to the generally dull suit. The Don Draper fold, above, where only one fold shows and only barely, is boring, hides the individuality of your selection and nearly defeats the purpose. Two more expressive ways are:

(a) Fold twice in half, once each way to achieve a 1/4 corner square; then each 1/3 over the same way creating a long rectangle with all the material's edges on one end; finally fold the non-edged end up as necessary to show about as much handkerchief as you do cuff.

(b) Hold the middle of the square and shake out the edges; then loosely gather the (now 1/2) length of the handkerchief together creating a bunch of points; finally fold one end end up as necessary to show as much of either end (pointed or rounded) as you desire creating a more expressive but equally standard look.

If that was ambiguously written, there's a handy guide with pictures here.

3. Shop
Finally, and most importantly, you need to buy your pocket square. I feel that for such a small piece of material, $30 is about the ceiling one need spend, unless you find something just right or have more extra money than extra time. For this reason, I discourage department stores, which seem to offer only name brand handkerchiefs for two or more times my proposed maximum price. Instead, the Internet! The previously featured TheTieBar.com has an impressive selection in silk. Surprisingly, the trad headquarters of Brooks Brothers offers a selection of appropriately priced cotton, linen, and silk handkerchiefs in familiar patters. Four styles are even on sale right now. Also, I recently learned about Howard Yount, who offers well priced silk, linen, and a couple cotton options in a handful of patterns and colors.

UPDATE 4/9/10: Brooks Brothers squares are now rated individually here.

And don't forget color: color and pattern are your chance to show some creativity and originality. In a dress handkerchief, pick a color which complements your shirt and tie but is only minimal or not actually present. There's so little of it you can experiment with colors you don't normally wear. Have fun and achieve a great look.

Rating:

A Case for Desert Boots

2010-03-25T07:22:00.000-07:00

For the past little while I've been fascinated by desert boots. They were invented in 1950 by Clarks and were modeled upon British soldier's suede pairs used for occupying Egypt. Besides being suede, they traditionally have a crepe sole--what is that, by the way--and are brown. While I won't be administering any foreign countries any time soon, I'd love some none-the-less.

I was initially tentative because of suede's reputation as non-water friendly. As a committed Seattlite, it seems a bit impractical to own dry-weather only shoes. However, my fascination with these has caused me to do some additional research and it seems, with proper care, suede can be worn in the wet, but one should still try to avoid it within reason. All I can think of is the Seinfeld with the candy-stripe jacket. A suede brush and eraser should keep these looking great.

Clarks makes the original desert boot in seven colors (not counting the beeswax leather because it's not suede). While I personally love the pictured sand colored ones, I have to recommend a shade of brown as the classic prototype if you're going to go with the original Clarks. They'll go great with virtually any color of chinos, jeans, or even a casual suit.

Thanks to Clarks for the image.

TheTieBar.com

2010-03-24T08:02:00.000-07:00

I came across this entrepreneur via Valet and finally tried them out during my non-bloging period. The best part, everything is $15 or less. Now they've sent me an email notifying me there are some new spring styles, so it seems like it's time to check them out.
Their selection of ties, both skinny and conventional, is really magnificent and I helped myself to a Trad Stripe Navy/Pink skinny tie and two tie bars immediately. The ties are not of a quality I would wear to work with a suit--print rather than woven patterns and not very thick--but are terrific for evenings and weekend steeze. The selection is really what does it as I've found that skinny ties at affordable prices are hard to find. I don't want to spend enough money to worry about a tie when I'm wearing it purely for whimsy rather than to impress.

I also picked up two tie bars, the aforementioned one and a gold one for variety. The tie bars are of similar quality, but I can live with that for the same reasons. However, there is not the same glorious selection so I'm a little miffed the name isn't TheSkinnyTie...

Unfortunately for me, I realized they have an epic variety of dress handkerchiefs only after I placed my order. The one pictured is an example of the terrific bright colors available in classic and still sufficiently loud patterns. If I ever get some money, I'll be picking up a half-dozen or more similarly loud $8 pocket squares immediately, starting with this one.

Happy Birthday Steve McQueen

2010-03-23T13:10:00.000-07:00

It's come to my attention (1) that tomorrow is the King of Cool's 80's [posthumous] birthday and (2) that LIFE has released twenty never before seen photos of Mr. McQueen for our sartorial and viewing pleasure.

As I've said before, I appreciate many things about Mr. McQueen including his movies and his sense of style. I've included my three favorite photos as a preview, but you should check out the link above for the full experience.

Alas, none of the photos feature him in the famous Barracuda Jacket, which should itself be the subject of a post soon, but they do offer some splendid dress non-the-less. In this first photo, Mr. McQueen is wearing some snazzy white tennis shoes, chinos, a polo, and revolver. Except for the gun, you could spot me in that many a fine spring day. It, however, is appropriate to the wearer and brings his rebel demeanor into play.

What I most like about this second photo is the bear rug, pure nostalgia. I remember my grandfather had several quality bear rugs that he'd shot himself that my mom still hangs onto and enjoys. Well played. I'll also let the sectional couch slide because, just in the right edge, it appears there's an Eames lounge chair rounding out the furnishings.

In this third picture, we get records galore, stored in a very un-High Fidelity sort of way and what looks like a cardigan with some black loafers[?] and jeans. Casual yet smart, I really like the feeling of this picture the most. The rest of the collection offers similar quality, including a terrific action shot in a roadster that you should really check it out. And happy birthday to that man on the hog in the skies.

The Case Book of Sherlock Holmes

2010-03-22T21:19:00.000-07:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 138 pages (1927).

Alas, I've now read every Holmes mystery... both a joyful and sad time. This final collection ended on a dismal note, as it is clearly the worst of the batch of books. About half the stories echoed earlier mysteries in one or more ways, though each led to a different solution than their predecessors. I would make some sort of case-by-case pairing, but I don't want to put in the effort or spoil the reading for any who may chose to take it up.

There were a number of quite unique and interesting stories, including the finale of The Adventure of the Retired Colorman. I appriciated that mystery in particular because it was portrayed by Watson as simply another story being told from Holmes' active career instead of yet another closing note to it. I wonder, was Conan Doyle hedging his bets or did he realize that ending to his collections was getting tedious? Also noteworthy was that two stories were, for the first time, told by Holmes himself because Watson did not partake in them. They lacked the same romantic color that Watson wrote it and were admirable for the change in voice, Conan Doyle showing his skill.

As a whole, disappointing, but worth reading non-the-less. I will miss Holmes, Watson, and the feel of late Victorian London in my daily life.

Rating: **

Bluetone Layering

2010-03-22T15:33:00.000-07:00

I'll be experimenting with some new formatting as I gear-up to post regularly again. Today's trial post is modeled on Young Man/Old Man, see Blogs Out There, and is what I'm wearing to HJP PM this evening. Check it out:

Up top: a white shirt, purple paisley tie, blue 1/4-button sweater, blue tonal jacket, and purple linen dress handkerchief.

Below the waist, light khaki chinos, black socks, and black cap-toe Blucher's.

I went with colors in the blue family or otherwise very neutral. I really like this Johnston & Murphy merino sweater I got for Christmas and didn't wear it enough this winter; this is sort-of a last hurrah for it as the weather is quickly becoming too hot for such a warm sweater. I do, however, find that Johnston & Murphy merino pills, which I don't think Merino is supposed to do. I like the combination of collared sweater with jacket, but I had to go sport coat instead of blazer because mine is too dark and just didn't work. I also chose black shoes for their more formal nature and matching socks to draw attention to what was probably the most formal part of my costume. I also think the casual nature of the sweater-chinos and the color combo of the chinos-sport coat help tie the whole thing together. Finally, the tie and pocket square because I meet clients at this clinic and I feel lawyers wear ties.

His Last Bow

2010-03-05T07:18:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 115 pages (1917).

This penultimate collection begins with an exciting bang and ends with a somber, almost depressing finale. The best story in the collection takes after two of the Holmes novellas by being bifurcated. It also hints at an attempted sensationalism and internationalism--one could call it false drama, like the doctor and lawyer 'dramas' of today's network television--that is so characteristically absent in the earlier Holmes mysteries. Watson remarks that Holmes breaks with retirement were justified only by request from the heights of Her Majesty's Government, but that explanation seems dissonant with Holmes repeated interest in only interesting cases in his earlier-recounted adventures. The constant refrain [threat?] that Watson will no longer write about Holmes is also tiring, though well-explained and documented by the opinions and career of Conan Doyle.

This collection does not remotely compare with the recently reviewed excellence of the middle-history of Sherlock Holmes. Only two stories are worth noting: The Adventure of Wisteria Lodge and His Last Bow. The former is an excellent story and nothing else need be said. The latter is yet another conclusion to the Holmes saga, and one with a distinctly different tone from The Final Problem--where Holmes dies at the Reichenbach Falls.

In The Final Problem, there is a feeling of sadness at the loss of an interesting character, but at least he has gone out in a productive and spectacular fashion--as well as one truly a complement to his character. However, the background of Holmes returning to the South Downs tending his bees and Watson returning to obscurity amongst the London millions is so peaceful it is almost depressing. The mood may have fit a war-torn England mired in the Great War, and hearing of Holmes service against the Germans doubtlessly did, but it is entirely too uneventful an end to for Holmes. We are not even given the decency of one last detection, instead the story is written out of Watson's voice and begins with the conclusion of the investigation and ends with a brief summary of its course. It is nice to think of the characters uniting for Queen and Country one last time, of going out in total victory, and of returning to their separate solitude, but it feels much too incomplete. At least Conan Doyle put out one, last series of short stories to make up for all this.

Rating: **1/2

News of A Kidnapping

2010-02-24T07:07:00.000-08:00

By Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 291 pages (1996).

This is the true story of the events that led to Pablo Escobar's surrender and brief, lavish imprisonment. Under the pseudonym The Extraditables, the Medellin Cartel took a number of prominent Colombian citizens hostage and used them to negotiate avoid the most serious punishment Colombia could think of--extradition to the United States. I found it interesting that the drug lords found a fair trial and imprisonment under reasonable conditions the worst possible punishment for their lives of crime.

The most curious constant throughout the book was how Garcia Marquez used neutral language to describe The Extraditables' demands: for instance, he repeatedly referred to the arrest of members of the Cartel as "abductions," something the criminals were clearly doing to try to put themselves on an equal footing with the police and government at large. I suppose this comes from his background as a journalist, and it certainly helped express what I assume to be the Colombian mindset. It was also notable that there were many brief explanations of background that felt like Garcia Marquez was writing primarily for a distant audience.

The story was certainly interesting--though it barely met my criteria for making truth into leisure material, that it be interesting even if the subjects are not famous--but read too much like a history and not enough like a novel. It reads like the footnotes were just deleted, practically noting the sources in the text. The novel would have benefited from the style in The General and His Labyrinth. Because of this excess detail, the story dragged for almost the entire 291 pages. I must say it is Garcia Marquez's most disappointing work.

Rating: **

The Valley of Fear

2010-02-13T07:05:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 96 pages (1915).

Alas, this is the final novella of Sherlock Holmes. It was both sad and exciting starting this final long form mystery; sad because it was the last, leaving only two books of short stories for my through enjoyment, and exciting because of how much I enjoyed The Hound of the Baskervilles. This was a return to the format of A Study in Scarlet, a two-part mystery with the back-story revealed after Holmes has finished investigating but before he reveals his findings to Watson. Interestingly, a criticism I had of A Study in Scarlet, the abrupt jump which leaves the reader thinking he will never discover the details of the crime, was responded to by Conan Doyle with a short paragraph of Watson's explaining why he's shifting subjects so drastically before completely wrapping up the mystery. This transition is also more appropriately placed.

Holmes is called to investigate a strange murder in an old manor house surrounded by a moat. The existence of this moat was, perhaps, the most mysterious part of the whole story. It is only four feet deep at most, and so hardly presents the impenetrable barrier to escape that the characters seem to think it does. While Holmes and several others note the murderer could have easily waded through, at only the cost of getting his feet wet, everyone acts on the assumption that this was close-to unthinkable and that removing one's pants and shoes and drying off was not an option. Victims of Nineteenth Century etiquette I suppose.

The second part of the story takes place in an American coal mining region and it itself very interesting. That story is about a newcomer to the district who finds that the charitable society he joined in Chicago is a society of murder and extortion in his new home. Needless to say, he gets tied-up in this society and excitement ensues.

Rating: **1/2

The Hound of the Baskervilles

2010-02-06T07:01:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 92 pages (1902).

I've much anticipated re-reading the most famous of all Holmes mysteries. The Hound of the Baskervilles is a return to the novella form for Holmes, a welcome change for me, but is not really the Holmes mystery par excellence because (1) it takes place mostly outside London and (2) Holmes is absent for much of the investigation, choosing to delegate to Watson.

This, however, doesn't detract from the enjoyment. I, of course, read this mystery many times in my childhood but it had been long enough that the story took on a feel of being completely new. Holmes is called on by the new executor of the deceased Baronet Baskerville to investigate the mystery and protect Sir Henry, the new lord. It seems that the deceased Baronet was killed by the ghost hound who has haunted this family of British squires for generations. Holmes, of course, doesn't believe in ghosts and takes up the case to find out who's been harassing this family.

I raced through this book as quickly as possible, it was such a page-turner, only being interrupted by my professional duties. I strongly recommend it to anyone wanting to read an excellent mystery, whether they are curious Holmes readers or not. Despite it's magnificence, however, I must refer back to A Study in Scarlet for those who are more interested in Holmes than the mystery genera, as it provides a better introduction to the character, for good reason.

Rating: ****

Sons and Lovers

2010-02-01T07:16:00.000-08:00

By D.H. Lawrence, 403 pages (1913).

This book in many ways epitomizes why I don't like to read female authors. The narrative focuses on Mrs. Morel, the wife of a coal miner in rural England. She long ago stopped loving her husband--the story covers just before her marriage until shortly after her death but focuses on the time after her youngest child is born on--and struggles to live vicariously through her children. As such, there is entirely too much text devoted to the emotions and relationships between the characters. Not interesting.

The final part of the book, and the largest, is about Paul Morel, who becomes a factory manager and courts a married woman in a time when divorce was possible but extremely unusual. Paul is a pathetic character, though somewhat interesting, and was the only enjoyable part of a book filled with unlikeable people. However, he too is unlikeable: He can't make up his mind about women or wholly devote himself to one skill-set or profession. He also lets his mother dictate his life and retard his professional and social development.

Now, I do concede somewhat to stereotype by avoiding female authors, but I also recognize it is possible to deal with these subjects in an interesting manner. George Eliot, for instance, in Middlemarch, writes about several families and their interrelation, even spending a lot of pages on thoughts about marriage. But the way she writes, the action and character development are more like business relationships and have a feeling more of action than of emotion. Much more interesting. Every event from Lawrence's perspective is driven by emotional considerations, and that doesn't relate to my views.

Rating: *

The Return of Sherlock Holmes

2010-01-26T07:02:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 186 pages (1904).

These are, without a doubt, the best collection of Holmes short stories. I could list virtually all of them as the highlights but I will stick with just four for brevity's sake.

In The Adventure of Charles Augustus Milverton, Holmes and Watson actually commit a crime themselves--very exciting, especially for only 10 pages. This adventure was somewhat shocking because of the crime and because Holmes does relatively little investigation, but is so compelling and such a page-turner I must list it as among my favorite Holmes short stories not just in this collection, but of all fifty-six.

In The Adventure of the Six Napoleons, I was able to guess at a small part of the mystery from near the beginning of the story, but the details were so unusual, or remarkable as Watson may put it, that the story was quite enjoyable. Holmes methods are on display in this story not so much for his excellent detection, but astute guess-work and a demonstration of the wide variety of special talents he has developed to become a scientific detective.

Finally, the Adventures of the Golden Pince-Nez and the Missing Three-Quarter both provide a glimpse into the more irregular mysteries that Holmes was called to investigate. In The Golden Pince-Nez, Holmes is called in to deal with a matter of State. A document has gone missing, a secret treaty similar to the ones that launched World War I. Previously, Watson has narrated investigations for Kings and other royalty, but this is the first story of Holmes serving the government at such a high level--fulfilling Watson's allusions to Holmes' important patronages. Then quite the opposite in The Missing Three-Quarter, where Holmes suspects from the beginning that no real scandal or crime was committed at all.

There are a number of other stories, most of which are worthy of making my humble assault on the short story form seem erroneous. This late point in Conan Doyle's career, when combined with The Hound of the Baskervilles, is clearly the high point.

Rating: ****

The Memoirs of Sherlock Holmes

2010-01-18T07:04:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 145 pages (1892).

This collection of short stories offered an improvement, I feel, over those from The Adventures. For one, the stories are more varied in the types of mysteries and the reason they are included by Watson in his collection. Two of the stories, The "Gloria Scott" and The Musgrave Ritual, are actually told by Holmes to Watson from his adventures before they met, and are written up afterward by Watson for his memoir. In his introduction to this collection, Christopher Morley says the Holmes-told stories lack something that the cases Watson watched first hand have: Strictly speaking, I agree, because they have a less personal character, but I think Morley makes too much of that and we are compensated because Holmes picks only the best cases to reiterate to Watson. There are some cases of grand importance to the Empire. Then the collection ends with the well-known The Final Problem--which has a sad tinge to it even when I know what will happen both in that story and afterward.

The major down-side to these short stories, besides those I mentioned before, is their formulaic nature. Watson is usually having a peaceful day and is disrupted from his relaxation by Holmes offer of a mystery, which Watson can never turn down. Conan Doyle tries to vary this pattern in these stories by having some told by Holmes and by having the two characters meet in difference situations, but the real pattern is the same. In fact, I found it somewhat distracting that the stories are in a jumbled temporal order, not even in the order Watson learned of them, really.

Overall, I think these are a slight improvement over the previous collection, but I am a bit disappointed that there is yet another book of short stories before I get to the third novel.

Rating: ***1/2

Adventures of Sherlock Holmes

2010-01-13T07:09:00.000-08:00

By Arthur Conan Doyle, 175 pages (1892).

The first short-story collection of Holmes mysteries, these were both disappointing and satisfying after reading two short novels on the character. It is the novels that bring out opportunities

for the observation, and for the quick analysis of cause and effect which gives the charm to an investigation

as Holmes himself would put it. On the other hand, these stories maintain the compelling nature of the novels, making them far more interesting than the typical short story. What we lose, is much of the color of the characters because there is little room for anything except the facts of the mystery, with the possible exception of A Scandal in Bohemia.

There are a number of excellent stories in this collection, including The Red-headed League and perhaps the best short, The Adventure of the Speckled Band. Many of the other cases are also excellent, but it would serve the reader little to list all twelve as notable. Given, however, the well-known nature of the these two, one lesser-known, but excellent, case was The Adventure of the Engineer's Thumb.

Rating: ***

The Ides of March

2010-01-12T07:16:00.000-08:00

By Thornton Wilder, 246 pages (1948).

I find reading history to be, itself, exciting, so reading historical fiction becomes a weak substitute. I was recommended this book by another book, I think it was a Garcia Marquez, but found it lacking. The first time I started it I abandoned the attempt after a dozen pages because I found the letter format for the book distracting. This second time it wasn't an issue because I tried to ignore that nature--simplifying the experience made it work for me. The story is compelling, but the true story is compelling so that's not saying much for the fiction.

I think what bothered me most was the inaccuracies, though Wilder explicitly denies an attempt to strictly follow history. From the introduction:

Historical reconstruction is not among the primary aims of this work. It may be called fantasia on certain events and persons...

He does try to use fiction to bring life to some of the theories surrounding the events, to bring secret beliefs and feelings into reality. And knowing the historic record for the time certainly makes that part of the book much more lively and gripping. Yet, I find the true story sufficient alone.

I've previously read, and not been overwhelmed by, The Bridge of San Luis Rey (number 37) so this will be my last reading of Wilder. That novel, too, is clothed in a mode of historic reconstruction. In summary, I enjoyed reading this book, but also didn't.

Rating: *1/2

The Sign of Four

2010-01-08T07:09:00.000-08:00

By Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, 70 pages (1890).

The second Sherlock Holmes novel, this one is a pure detective story without many of the artistic flair that made A Study in Scarlet so entertaining and promising a beginning. Holmes and Watson are friends now, better known to each other, and this story has the feel, to a point, of a testing-of-the-waters or the second part of a trilogy. It doesn't really get you anywhere by itself.

The aspect of this story that makes it superior is that more of the pages are devoted to the real purpose of the book, the investigation/mystery. Nearly half of A Study in Scarlet dealt with another issue while there is little but detection within these pages. This makes the narrative more compelling and stands up to Watson's conclusion that Holmes was more taxed and actually thrown off the trail temporarily with this case.

However, we learn little more about the world's only consulting detective. The reader must content himself instead with Watson's attraction to Holmes client if he is looking for character development and indeed little of Holmes eccentricities that made him endearing in the first novella are drawn out here. We learn in the opening page that Holmes is an opium addict and we read first-hand, as it were, about his bouts of inactivity which are only discussed anecdotally in the first book. Hopefully, for some readers the greater mystery will compensate for these artistic and narrative shortcomings, but for me they provide, like Holmes narcotics, an empty diversion.

Rating: **1/2

Up in the Air

2010-01-07T07:05:00.000-08:00

Staring George Clooney, Vera Farmiga, & Anna Kendrick, Directed by Jason Reitman 1:49 (R).

I'd been told this was a movie to go see, but I was at least partly misinformed. The writing was good, the story was decent, the romantic angle was undesirable. I suppose it you've got to go see some movie for the ladies next month--for some reason, perhaps lack of character--you might as well see this one. But then, if you did, you'd be even more late watching it than I was...

The story deals with a professional flier who fires people and talks about how to avoid connection to other people for a living. This casual disregard for sentimentality appeals to me. However, he turns over a new leaf, of sorts, at the end and more to the point is temped to do so by his younger, more female coworker throughout. How drab.

There is an interesting perspective on above ground travel and frequent flier miles throughout, and I wouldn't call it a must-miss, but not terrific either.

Rating: **

A Study in Scarlet

2010-01-06T07:03:00.000-08:00

By Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, 72 pages (1887).

I got my hands on The Complete Sherlock Holmes over the weekend, and have been delving into it with some passion ever since. I'll be doing reviews of the individual novels, as reprinted in the Doubleday collection, which purports to be

...the only complete, definitive edition of these famous stories. Originally published in nine separate books, containing thirteen hundred pages of the best detective fiction in English literature, they are the authoritative text of every Sherlock Holmes story ever written.

How delightful. Given the volume, it may take some time to review them all and I may read something else in the meantime so don't hold your breath.

The beginning is magnificent. I rushed through the first portion of a book I'd started Saturday to be at a good pausing point before jumping into my acquisition. I'd been cogitating on buying such a collection for some time, but have had plenty to read. I actually stumbled across Conan Doyle by mistake while looking for Sherwood Anderson and couldn't help myself. There were several different publications to choose from and Doubleday's claim, its hard binding, and its two volume configuration was the winner.

The story begins with Dr. John H. Watson's summary of his adventures in Afghanistan and subsequent return to England. He meets Holmes on the advice of a mutual friend and moves in at 221B Baker Street. The introduction device was a magnificent one for delving into the character study that this first adventure apparently was--being first, Conan Doyle had no way of knowing what a popular character he had just created. Standing alone, the novella is fantastic.

The story is told in two parts, the first in London and the second in Utah. The second part deals with the early Mormon church and is frank with regard to its shortcomings. Both tales are masterfully written and very compelling. A total page-turner and artistically enjoyable at the same time. Finally, at 72 pages, a quick and easy read for anyone--whether interested in detective fiction or not.

Rating: ***1/2

Kent Christmas Rush

2010-01-05T07:01:00.000-08:00

I return from my Christmas vacation to realize I neglected to put up a review of my performance in Kent on December 12. Well, I had my first podium finish and got a neat shirt. I just squeezed into third in my age group at this local 5K, about 1 1/2 minutes behind the 2d and equally ahead of 4th place finishers. As for time, I put out a discouraging 23:50; but even a best time would only have moved me up 1 slot in my age group.

Alas, I didn't get to bask in my glory as I was absent for the award-giving. The temperature was below freezing and this, for some reason, made my girlfriend cold, so I went off to get the car for her at the crucial moment. Apropos for her, however, that I went, because she won her age group and got a smashing plaque! Regrettably, I have no idea of our overall places because the good people of Kent only see fit to publish age group results.

The course itself was almost totally flat, along the Green River, with the biggest rise being a bridge. I find out-and-back's tedious, but we got great penguin-laden shirts in exchange. I plan to return next year.

Rating: ***

Denialism

2009-12-21T07:16:00.000-08:00

By Michael Specter, 268 pages (2009).

A few of my friends are always after me to read more non-fiction, but this book is an example of why I don't. It's terribly written, terrible, and would never have been published as a work of fiction, never. The grammar is sloppy, far from even inelegant, and the structure of the arguments are so terribly laid-out the author does a poor job making his point. I enjoy good writing and read, in part, because exposure to excellent writing makes one a better writer. On the whole, I feel non-fiction is poorly written.

The subtitle of this one is "How Irrational Thinking Hinders Scientific Progress, Harms the Planet, and Threatens Our Lives." Provocative. The thesis is that people too often believe things that have no evidence of truth in scientific fact, and indeed have evidence tending to show the beliefs are not true. He constantly quotes Jenny McCarthy and others who are open, if not up-front, about their non-scientific views on science.

Some of the major "denials" Specter takes on are (1) that vaccines aren't safe, (2) that organic food is healthier than conventional food, and (3) that supplements do anything good. All these things have been disproven, and he has major government or research university studies to back up his arguments, but he is almost as sloppy as his rhetorical opponents. It's too bad, because I tend to agree with his views that people shouldn't just reject science because they've heard something else somewhere else. If only he could have done it with some style or panache.

Rating: *1/2

Miscellaneous Christmas Gifts

2009-12-17T07:06:00.000-08:00

The best thing about giving a gift is the opportunity to make is subtly personal by giving a gift with character. These types of gifts frequently take the identity of trinkets, which are easily obnoxious to receive, but done right can be perfect.

One of the best gifts I ever got was a pocket knife. Three of my best friends and I all received matching pocket knives for high school graduation from one of our parents, with our initials engraved, and we each owned them proudly for years before they were inevitably lost. The personalization balanced well against the fact that they were fundamentally identical; the identical nature well with the fact that we all shared in it. Sometimes, you just hit the right note.

A wallet can be a good gift if done with class. The trick is to first find out what type the recipient uses, bifold, trifold, card carrier, rubber band, enormous international-businessman type; guessing or imposing a change upon him/her will quickly move you from personalized into trinket territory (you run the same risk-reward with a money clip). Color fits into this research-necessary class as well; few men ever switch colors. Women, I think, have some other system beyond my comprehension... The gift can become personal with extreme quality, by adding the recipients initials, or perhaps "Bad Mother Fucker." I just got a terrific wallet from Knomo. Also, at least in my family, it's traditional to put a dollar inside.

A sweater is a nice, gender-neutral gift, unlike a wallet which is overly financial in the wrong context. Something unexpected is, however, essential here because otherwise you're just buying them something they just bought or chose not to for some reason. Perhaps going international, with something from Europe, would step outside the line appropriately? I say yes. Last year, I got an Aran sweater (a.k.a. Irish Fisherman's sweater) from the Aran isles and find it to be fantastic. Mine is made by a small, but apparently growing based on the web site, Irish company giving it authenticity. It's a bit itchy because it's completely untreated wool, but they have a merino version now that might be softer. This winter, it's serving a dual role as warm-as-hell something different for the weekends (which are almost every day for the unemployed masses) and pretend Christmas sweater. I've been having "Christmas sweaters are cool if they're cut modern" stuffed down my throat and refuse to believe it, so I go this route instead but can also wear it for more than three weeks a year. Ha!

Finally, more toward the stocking-suffer or trinket end, a business card holder is an elegant option for a coworker, perhaps a new one... I agree with Kempt that nobody really needs on, but I've had a similarly elegant one for the past year or so and find it a much more satisfying way to do the duty at networking events than one's wallet or breast pocket.

Victory

2009-12-14T07:09:00.000-08:00

By Joseph Conrad, 385 pages (1915).

I'll take a break today from my Christmas Gift Guide to provide some more traditional content, a book review. This is not on the 100 Best, but Conrad has copious contributions, and rightly so. As stories go, this one is compelling, but not as engrossing as others. It deals with a hermit who becomes the target of a heist. The writing, however, is fantastic--so full of great turns-of-phrase that I won't bother reprinting one here because no single entry could be representative. The theme deals with the death of the gentleman class, or rather its decent into irrelevance and loss of historic context.

As with Lord Jim, mentioned Friday, this entry is set in Southeast Asia, here specifically the Malay Archipelago. The scenery is warm and subdued, but Conrad does not do as good a job as he usually does of making the reader feel he is in the story--no chill of London Fog or breeze of the tropics. Instead, the focus for the reader is more on a character study, with the four main characters of Mr. Jones, Ricardo, the Baron Heyst, and Schomberg. They are all interesting, if aggravating, characters. There are also a number of reoccurring supporting cast members who bounce off the central figures to keep the interest going. It was a decent read, but a bit slow and, except for the apt paragraphs throughout, disappointing.

Rating: **1/2